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= F 1 1 C S 2 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 =
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= F 11111 CCCCC SSSSS 22222 000 000 000 =
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= F1 CHAMPIONSHIP SEASON 2000 DRIVING GUIDE =
= =
= By =
= Jamie Stafford/Wolf Feather =
= FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM =
= =
= =============================================== =
= =
= Initial Version Completed January 25, 2001 =
= =
= Version 2.2 =
= Last Update: May 18, 2001 =
= =
=========================================================
UPDATE NOTE
First, a general request for info and tips on a particular
issue of F1 Championship Season 2000. Does anyone have any
suggestions on how to reduce wheel spin at the beginning of a
race (other than waiting for F1 2001)? I personally play
using automatic transmission, as do others who have e-mailed
me on this issue, so information for automatic transmission
would be especially useful. I find less wheel spin when
using a higher gear ratio, but that conflicts with my
personal driving style. Perhaps it may be best to simply
live with this "problem" until F1 2001; with traction control
finally reintroduced into F1 racing this year (beginning with
the Grand Prix of Spain), the next incarnation of this game
series will hopefully follow suit.
In early April, a copy of this driving guide was e-mailed to
EA Sports, with the hope that some of the many suggested
changes and additions (see Wish List, near the end of this
driving guide) will be implemented in their future F1 games.
After waiting for over a month, I finally received a response
recently from someone at EA Sports working on the
PlayStation2 version of F1 2001. While he did not respond to
the core of this driving guide (citing lack of time), he did
comment on the items in the Wish List. I unfortunately
cannot include his responses in the driving guide (yet) as I
have not been given official permission by EA Sports to
include his comments; for the same reason, I am very leery
about mentioning much more than this concerning his comments.
Many thanks to EA Sports for the response to the Wish List
items.
I have also decided to implement an e-mail list, to notify
others when this driving guide is updated (which seems to be
at least monthly). Interested persons should send an e-mail
to me at FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM and ask to be included in
this list. As always, general comments, concerns, questions,
rants, raves, etc., can also be sent to me at this same e-
mail address.
This driving guide keeps getting longer. I suppose this is a
good thing - and judging by the e-mails I have been
receiving, my efforts are paying off in terms of helping
others with this game. However, printing out this file might
not be such a good idea, especially for those on a tight
budget. As I finish this version, the driving guide is now
an unbelievable 73 pages long (perhaps I have become a little
too verbose?) using Courier 12 font with single-spacing in
the Macintosh version of Word 98. To contrast, the final
version of my F1 2000 driving guide, upon which this driving
guide is based, is only 54 pages long using the same
formatting parameters.
CONTENTS
Spacing and Length
Permissions
Introduction
Assumptions and Conventions
Car Set-ups
Completely Subjective Section
General Tips
The 2000 Courses
Course Difficulty and Drivability Rankings
Differences and Additions
Training Mode
Scenario Mode
Grand Prix of Australia: Albert Park
Grand Prix of Brazil: Interlagos
Grand Prix of San Marino: Imola
Grand Prix of Great Britain: Silverstone
Grand Prix of Spain: Catalunya
Grand Prix of Europe: Nurburgring
Grand Prix of Monaco: Monte Carlo (Temporary Street Circuit)
Grand Prix of Canada: Gilles Villeneuve
Grand Prix of France: Nevers Magny-Cours
Grand Prix of Austria: A1-Ring
Grand Prix of Germany: Hockenheim
Grand Prix of Hungary: Hungaroring
Grand Prix of Belgium: Spa-Francorchamps
Grand Prix of Italy: Monza
Grand Prix of the United States: Indianapolis
Grand Prix of Japan: Suzuka
Grand Prix of Malaysia: Sepang
Wish List
Wrap-up
Contact Information
SPACING AND LENGTH
For optimum readability, this driving guide should be
viewed/printed using a monowidth font, such as Courier.
Check for font setting by making sure the numbers and letters
below line up:
Note that this driving guide is well over 65 pages long using
Courier 12 font with single-spacing in Microsoft Word.
==============================================
PERMISSIONS
Permission is hereby granted for a user to download and/or
print out a copy of this driving guide for personal use.
This driving guide may only be posted on: FeatherGuides,
GameFAQs.com, f1gamers.com, PSXCodez.com, Cheatcc.com,
Absolute-PlayStation.com, InsidePS2Games.com,
CheatPlanet.com, The Cheat Empire, a2zweblinks.com, Gameguru,
cheatingplanet.com, neoseeker.com, and vgstrategies.com.
Please contact me for permission to post elsewhere on the
Internet.
Should anyone wish to translate this driving guide into other
languages (F1 Championship Season 2000 is also optimized for
French and Spanish), please contact me for permission(s) and
provide me with a copy when complete (especially important so
that I can improve my French and Spanish skills).
INTRODUCTION
Most likely, if you play F1 Championship Season 2000, then
you are at least a casual fan of Formula 1 racing, and have
at least basic knowledge of many or all of the currently-used
F1 courses. That knowledge does indeed help when first
playing F1 Championship Season 2000, and vice versa -
extensive gameplay helps in determining where the drivers are
on each course when races are televised.
The main part of this driving guide provides information to
help you to cleanly drive each course. Even those who know
the courses fairly well and/or play the game regularly can
always use tips.
Please note that much of this information comes from the
driving guide I wrote for F1 2000 (the predecessor to F1
Championship Season 2000), also by EA Sports. Those who have
read and/or downloaded the driving guide for F1 2000 will
already have the same basic information covered in this
driving guide. This driving guide has been modified and
expanded to reflect the differences between the two games,
and I am periodically adding more details to the circuit
information (especially where there are some minor
differences between the two games) as well as a Wish List in
case anyone from EA Sports is reading this document.
The information within this driving guide is based on the PSX
version of F1 Championship Season 2000. I have not had the
chance (i.e.: funds) to acquire the PS2 version, but I have
been told by a local gaming store employee that the only real
difference between the two versions is a richer overall color
in the PS2 version. Then again, the March 2001 issue of
_PSM_ royally panned the PS2 version for its 'cartoony
graphics' (page 42).
==============================================
ASSUMPTIONS AND CONVENTIONS
Several of the official course and segment names used in F1
racing include the use of characters which are not standard
to the English language, on which the Internet and standard
text-only documents are based. In order to eliminate the
potential for 'strange characters' in a standard, text-only,
Internet-distributed document, these characters have
purposely not been used.
This driving guide is designed with the assumption that you
(the player) are playing with Dry Weather, Fuel Usage, Flags,
Equipment Failures, and Damage all activated. (Weather is
randomized if Realistic Weather is chosen.) Most important
here is Flags; with the Flags option activated, shortcutting
corners, driving too far off-course, passing another car when
the yellow flag is displayed, and reckless driving (including
driving backward during a race) will instigate a ten-second
Stop-Go Penalty; driving backward results in an immediate
Black Flag, ending your race). It is not possible to
'accumulate' multiple outstanding Stop-Go Penalties and then
serve them all at once; if more than one Stop-Go Penalty is
outstanding, you will be shown a Black Flag and be forced to
end the race prematurely.
According to the FIA's rules for F1 competition, a driver may
make no more than three complete laps before serving a Stop-
Go Penalty once one has been assigned, or else the driver is
shown the Black Flag. However, if a Stop-Go Penalty is
issued in the last five laps of a race and is unserved, the
driver is instead penalized by adding twenty seconds to his
or her overall time. F1 Championship Season 2000 also
follows the twenty-second penalty in this case, but only if
the Stop-Go Penalty was assigned with less than three
complete laps remaining in the race.
Most racetracks outside the United States name most corners
and even some straightaways. Where these names are known,
they will be included in parentheses and referenced in the
explanatory text. These names have been gathered from course
maps available on the courses' official Web sites, my memory
of how F1 races have been called by American TV sportscasters
(Fox Sports Net and SpeedVision), and/or from the Training
Mode of F1 Championship Season 2000. To the extent possible,
these names have been translated into English.
==============================================
CAR SET-UPS
First, these set-ups are for the PSX and PS2 versions of F1
Championship Season 2000. It was recently brought to my
attention that the PC version of the game uses a different
set-up entry. Unfortunately, I cannot provide any assistance
here, as I own a Mac and do not have access to a PC on which
I can play games. SorryŠ
During the Test Day, Practice, and Qualifying sessions,
sitting in the Pits and pressing the Start button brings up
an options screen. Selecting 'Car Setup' brings up dialogues
to change Front Downforce, Rear Downforce, Gear Ratios,
Steering Lock, and other car settings (press the up, down,
and circle buttons to switch between these dialogues). For
convention, this driving guide will use the following system
to show these settings:
Ground Clearance: -1
These dialogues show seven small boxes. The centermost box
means a neutral (zero) setting. The three boxes to the left
mean progressively lower settings (negative), while the three
boxes to the right mean progressively higher settings
(positive). The number indicates how many boxes in each
direction the red square should move.
Each course will have suggested settings to help stabilize
the car chosen for that circuit. These are simply
suggestions, largely based upon my rather aggressive driving
style, with the car truly on the hair-thin edge of its
limits. Experiment and find the car set-up which works best
for your driving style for each course. I would assume that
the bulk of any individual player deviations will be made to
the Front Downforce, Rear Downforce, and Rear Diffuser
settings.
If this makes any difference, these car set-ups were all
specifically set playing as Michael Schumacher (Ferrari) in
Practice Mode, with dry weather, no damage, no flags, no tire
wear, and no failures. The car set-ups presented here are
essentially the same ones that I use in actual races, just
more fine-tuned with several laps in Practice Mode.
Also related to the suggested set-ups, I recently received an
e-mail from a highly-observant player asking why I use a Gear
Ratio of -3 (fastest acceleration) on every circuit. While I
replied to him directly, I assumed others might also be
wondering about this consistent setting, to which I can only
reply in a two-part answer. First, this was originally an
unconscious 'holdover' from playing other racing games, such
as the Gran Turismo series. Most importantly, however, it
fits my aggressive driving style quite well, providing
quicker acceleration - which is especially useful for passing
in turns, or for recovering quickly when I brake too deep
into a corner. (For those wondering about this last
statement, the driving tips for each course are for more
'standard' driving styles, not for highly-aggressive driving
styles like mine.) While Gear Ratio of -3 produces fastest
acceleration, using the suggested car set-up for each course
(except perhaps for Monaco) will still allow players to drive
faster than any CPU-controlled vehicle on the track; on long
straightaways (such as at Monza and Indianapolis, and
especially at Hockenheim), speeds of well over 200MPH/320KPH
(even approaching 220MPH/350KPH) are quite commonŠ and isn't
that really fast enough!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
==============================================
COMPLETELY SUBJECTIVE SECTION
My favorite courses are:
Albert Park
Imola
Monaco (to watch a race, not to actually race, especially
since I was able to visit Monaco in 1991)
Hockenheim
Spa-Francorchamps
Monza
Suzuka
My least favorite courses are:
Interlagos (but NOT because of any falling billboards)
Nurburgring
Monaco (to race)
A1-Ring
Sepang
My favorite corners:
Albert Park: Turns 11 and 12
Silverstone: Copse and Stowe
Monaco: The Tunnel
Turns 12 and 13 at Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve
Circuit Gilled-Villeneuve: Nurburgring
Hockenheim: The Stadium and the Ayrton Senna Chicane
Spa-Francorchamps: La Source, Pouhon, and Blanchimont
Monza: Curva Parabolica
Indianapolis: Turn 13 (Indy/NASCAR Turn 1)
Suzuka: Degner and 130R
My least favorite corners are:
Monaco: Everything but The Tunnel and the entry to the
Swimming Pool Chicane
Most hairpins
My favorite Pit Lanes are at:
Imola
Spa-Francorchamps
Monza
Indianapolis
My least favorite Pit Lanes are at:
Albert Park
Interlagos
Monaco
A1-Ring
Hungaroring
Sepang
My favorite teams are:
Ferrari
Prost
Jaguar
My least favorite team is:
McLaren
==============================================
GENERAL TIPS
Knowing each circuit extremely well is essential to success
in F1 Championship Season 2000Š as it is an any racing game.
This is especially important when driving in overcast/wet
conditions at circuits with significant numbers of trees near
the track itself, such as at Hockenheim and at Spa-
Francorchamps, as the numerous trees will cast dark shadows
across much of the visible track ahead. These shadows can
obscure not only changes in track elevation and the placement
of corners, but also the position of vehicles ahead
(especially darker-colored vehicles, such as the Prost and
McLaren cars).
Also important for wet racing conditions, look for the single
red taillight on the back of each car. In wet and other
poor-visibility conditions, F1 cars are required to turn on
the taillight so that they can be seen by those behind them.
Especially in wet conditions, this is extremely helpful, as
it is not always possible to see the actual car ahead as it
kicks up a large 'rooster tail' of spray.
In general, bumping other cars is a bad thing: You might
damage your own car, and, if it occurs too much, you may also
receive a Stop-Go Penalty. If you ram another car's backside
at full speed, you will almost definitely receive a Stop-Go
Penalty. The best way to avoid Stop-Go Penalties is to keep
at least two wheels on the approved driving surfaces
(pavement, rumble strips, and the rare green-colored concrete
swing-out extensions) at all times, and to refrain from
colliding with other cars. Remember that you need only be
'out of bounds' by ONE PIXEL to receive a Stop-Go Penalty.
The rumble strips can be your friends or your enemies. If
you attempt to drive across rumble strips at a near-
perpendicular angle (such as shortcutting Chicane at Suzuka),
they will almost certainly be your enemies, causing your car
to slide, spin violently, and/or even throw your vehicle into
the air. If driving in wet conditions, even using rumble
strips as intended can be dangerous, as the water greatly
reduces the amount of grip they will provide for your tires.
Normally, the best way to approach a turn is from the
outside. At the apex of the turn, your car should be as
close as possible to the inside of the turn. As you leave
the turn, edge back toward the outside. This is obviously
made more difficult on really tight and/or blind corners,
especially at Monaco. An excellent way to learn how to
navigate various types of corners is to complete all the
license tests in any game of the Gran Turismo series.
If playing with Fuel Usage activated, it may be a good idea
to set your Pit Stops for late in the race. This way, should
you need to pit early to repair damage, you can also take on
'extra' fuel at that time and eliminate a later-scheduled Pit
Stop. Note that this is not possible when serving a Stop-Go
Penalty, as the Pit Crew is not permitted to touch the
vehicle while the Penalty is being served (although in actual
races, the Pit Crew will often surround the car for a visual
inspection, taking care not to touch the vehicle).
Braking is of utmost importance, especially when approaching
a tight chicane or a blind corner. If you are not sure of
where a corner is (especially with other cars in front of
you), brake early. For a real-world example of what can
happen by missing a braking zone, refer to the 2000 Grand
Prix of Italy at Monza (Lap 1, Roggia Chicane; this is the
massive accident in which the resultant flying debris struck
and killed a volunteer corner worker).
If you come into a (tight) corner too fast, several things
may happen. First, if you slam hard on the brakes, you may
have brake-lock (the white-gray smoke coming up from one or
more of the wheels) and slide straight ahead into whatever is
there to stop you - hopefully sand or grass, but perhaps a
barrier or (worse) one or more cars. Second, if you keep
your speed up and try to take the corner anyhow, you will
likely spin and/or slide the car. With the new physics
engine of F1 Championship Season 2000, spins and/or slides
are far more likely now than in the preceding version of the
game. This second scenario is also (subjective statement
coming) 'more true' to actual F1 racing, as the line between
maintaining and losing control of the vehicle - especially at
the incredibly high average speeds of most of the circuits -
is not only gray and hazy, but thinner than a strand of Homer
Simpson's hair. This further demonstrates the importance of
early braking (again, refer to the 2000 Grand Prix of Italy).
Activating the Flags option in F1 Championship Season 2000
causes the game to use the same flags and related rules as an
actual F1 race. If shown a Blue Flag, you are to allow the
car(s) behind you to pass. When shown a Yellow Flag, you are
to slow down and not pass anyone until you see a Green Flag
(normal racing conditions); however, when the Yellow Flag is
displayed, you are certainly permitted to pass a vehicle with
obvious problems, such as a car with a blown engine.
Amazingly, in F1 Championship Season 2000, a car can still be
driven even after a wheel has fallen off!!!!! If you do lose
a wheel, it will usually be on the front of the car, due to
bumping another car or smashing against a barrier. Turning
the car toward the missing wheel (i.e., turning left if the
left front wheel is missing) is not very difficult, but
turning away from the missing wheel (turning right in this
example) is nearly impossible at any speed faster than a
snail's crawl. However, once any two wheels have separated
from the car, your race immediately ends.
It is rare that your rear wing will ever be damaged; the most
probable means of damaging the rear wing is spinning and
hitting a barrier or another car with the backside of your
vehicle. However, if you are too aggressive or are not
careful entering the Pit Lane (especially if coming in at
full speed at Monza, with a rather narrow Pit Lane Entry),
you may damage your front wing. If a wing only has 'a slight
knock' and is labeled yellow in the damage indicator, you can
still drive normally, although serious caution must be taken
on downhill turns (such as the first corner at Hungaroring).
One significant change from F1 2000 is that, should you lose
a wing, your car still handles as if the wing was still
intact, which reduces the realism of the game, but does allow
you to stay out of the pits, which is highly important in a
close race.
Also concerning the front and rear wings, it takes
approximately twenty seconds to change a wing. If both wings
are damaged, expect to sit in the Pits for about forty
seconds before you are able to rejoin the race. TAKE CARE OF
THE WINGS!!!!!
If a car is trying to pass, there are several methods to keep
from losing a position (as long as you are not shown a Blue
Flag). If the pass attempt is in or near an upcoming corner,
take away the inside or outside line, depending on where the
opposing vehicle is in relation to yours. If the other car
does get a wheel in front of you, edge TOWARD the opposing
vehicle, and eventually, the other car will be out in the
grass or sand and will fall back. Aggressive drivers may
simply wish to bump wheels, causing the other car to spin
and/or crash, especially if there is a barrier on the
opposite side of the opposing vehicle; however, you may
damage your own car, particularly the wheels and/or the
suspension. While not particularly successful, those driving
with automatic transmissions can quickly switch to Neutral
(Shift Down button) and then back to the previous gear (Shift
Up button), creating a 'smokescreen' cloud; however, this can
cause flat-spotting and undue tire wear on your own car, as
well as potential damage to the engine and/or transmission,
especially when this maneuver is performed in top gear on a
truly quick straightaway.
If playing the Championship Mode, points are awarded for the
top six cars at the end of the race; these points are given
to the driver (for the Drivers Championship) and the team
(for the Constructors Championship). The points are awarded
as follows, in accordance with FIA regulations:
First Place: 10 points
Second Place: 6 points
Third Place: 4 points
Fourth Place: 3 points
Fifth Place: 2 points
Sixth Place: 1 point
Each team has two cars starting each race; a team could
conceivably receive a maximum of 16 points in a given race.
Thus, if you are concerned about winning the Constructors
Championship, race as a driver for an historically good team,
such as Ferrari or McLaren.
Whichever driver and team you select to represent you in the
race, you will periodically be given radio updates as to your
teammate's status during the race (i.e., if you race as Jean
Alesi, you will be given status updates on Nick Heidfeld's
track position and pitting schedule). It is extremely
important to listen to this information, especially during
the window(s) for pit stops, as each team can only service
one car at a time in Pit Lane. If you come into Pit Lane
while your teammate is being serviced, you cannot pit and
will be forced to drive straight through Pit Lane without
receiving serviceŠ which itself will likely set you back
severely in track position, but you will also be set back
even further when you come around again to make your true pit
stop.
If racing in wet conditions using a chase-view camera,
looking behind you is practically useless due to the 'rooster
tail' of spray kicked up behind your car. To get a clear
view of traffic behind you, first change quickly to driver
view or front-wing view, then use the rear view button. When
finished, release the rear view button and quickly return to
your favorite chase view position. This 'stunt' is best
performed on a straightaway with no cars immediately in front
of you.
Also important for racing in wet conditions, brake earlier
than usual. If you continue to use the same 'dry conditions'
braking, you will likely slide and/or spin the car as you
attempt to navigate (sharp) corners. It may also help to
pump the brakes through tight corners, especially hairpins
such as 'Mickey' and 'Mouse' at Indianapolis.
If you are a visually-oriented person, it may help you to go
to the FIA's official Web site (http://www.fia.com/ - the
site is available in both English and in French) and go to
the current season's race schedule. From here, the official
Web sites (available in at least English and the host
country's official languages; sometimes other language
options are also available) of most of the race circuits can
be accessed, and course maps can be downloaded and printed
for you to study. Note that some online course maps are in
very high resolution, thus file size is large; this may be a
concern for those using a slow computer and/or modem.
Always use caution when passing, cornering, or even
breathing, as auto racing is an inherently dangerous sport!!!
==============================================
THE 2000 COURSES
F1 Championship Season 2000 presents the courses in the order
in which they were presented for the 2000 Formula 1 season.
This driving guide will follow the same convention, which
will be especially useful for those playing in Championship
Mode or Scenario Mode.
F1 Race Schedule, 2000 Season:
March 12 Australia Albert Park
March 26 Brazil Interlagos
April 9 San Marino Imola
April 23 Great Britain Silverstone
May 7 Spain Catalunya
May 21 Europe Nurburgring
June 4 Monaco Unnamed (Street Circuit)
June 18 Canada Gilles Villeneuve
July 2 France Nevers Magny-Cours*
July 16 Austria A1-Ring
July 30 Germany Hockenheim
August 13 Hungary Hungaroring*
August 27 Belgium Spa-Francorchamps
September 10 Italy Monza*
September 24 USA Indianapolis
October 8 Japan Suzuka
October 22 Malaysia Sepang
*These circuits are not used in Scenario Mode.
NOTE: The 2001 F1 race schedule is available at the official
FIA Web site (http://www.fia.com/). The race schedule also
has links to the official Web sites of most of the permanent
and temporary street circuits hosting F1 races. Please note
that the 2001 race schedule uses the same courses as the 2000
season (on which F1 Championship Season 2000 is based), but
in a different order. For example, the Grand Prix of
Malaysia was the final race of the 2000 season, but is the
second race of the 2001 season.
==============================================
COURSE DIFFICULTY AND DRIVABILITY RANKINGS
This section is highly subjective - take this information
with several grains of salt. The courses here are listed by
their order in the 2000 F1 racing season.
Australia Easy Extreme fun, extreme SPEED
Brazil Medium Lower course frustrating
Imola Medium Fun and FAST
Silverstone Medium Good
Catalunya Easy Fun
Nurburgring Medium Somewhat frustrating
Monaco Difficult Highly annoying (tightness)
Gilles Villeneuve Medium Fun
Nevers Magny-Cours Easy Quite fun, quite fast
A1-Ring Medium Very challenging
Hockenheim Easy Fun and EXTREMELY FAST
Hungaroring Medium Upper course challenging,
but fun overall
Spa-Francorchamps Medium Enjoyably challenging
Monza Easy Fun and FAST
Indianapolis Medium Depends on set-up
Suzuka Medium Fun challenge
Sepang Medium Not too bad, but not my
favorite
==============================================
DIFFERENCES AND ADDITIONS
There are some notable differences from F1 2000, as well as
significant additions.
The first major difference is the sleeker design of the
game's menus. I have been playing F1 Championship Season
2000 (PSX version) on a PlayStation 2, and the colors are
also much more vivid; whether this is due to the game itself
and/or the PS2 I do not know. The video footage of actual F1
races is also much better on the eyes than in the original
game.
Along the same lines, the opening video of actual F1 races is
much nicer than the opening of F1 2000, although the original
game's initial focus on a particular driver in its opening
video certainly helped to position the player within the F1
environment.
The music is also different, as one would probably expect.
The music is good overall, but I personally do prefer the
music from F1 2000.
The physics model has been modified for this newer game.
This is especially good for racing on the streets of Monaco,
as the newer physics model makes simple survival at Monaco
MUCH easier!!!!!!!!!
Speaking of Monaco, the chicane after leaving The Tunnel now
has only rumble strips marking the official course; the
barrier used in F1 2000 has thankfully been removed. Even
better, the CPU does not assign a Stop-Go Penalty for driving
in a straight line over the rumble strips and bypassing the
chicane, so this is a new passing zone. However, if you
blast through here at top speed, the angle of the rumble
strips will almost certainly force your car into a spinŠ and
an inevitable collision with the barrier(s) and/or other
cars.
The car set-up options have been expanded. However, it is
unrealistically possible to drive at top speed with a missing
wing.
The most significant additions for F1 Championship Season
2000 are Training Mode and Scenario Mode. Training Mode
allows you to learn each course's intricacies by using
colored cones to mark braking, turning, apex, and exit for
each corner, and by providing interactive commentary.
Scenario Mode presents realistic racing situations which
range from fairly easy to expert. Training Mode and Scenario
Mode are both discussed further below.
Another set of additions to this newer game is the new
potential problems you can face. The original game's
problems of a blown engine and lost and damaged wing(s) and
tire(s) are still available, but new problems have been
added: brake failure, suspension failure, engine misfire,
missing gears, punctured tire(s), etc. Some of these
problems can be fixed in a Pit Stop, but each fixable problem
takes approximately twenty seconds to repair or replace. For
example, if you have damaged both wings and the engine has a
minor misfire, expect to spend a full minute sitting in your
pit stall. These problems are most significant in Scenario
Mode.
As you progress through Championship Mode, you may be given
the option to change the difficulty setting of Championship
Mode based upon your performance. You are also given the
opportunity to view the race analysis (lap-by-lap positions
of each car/driver, with crashes and pit stops marked) after
each race.
Finally, the engines sound a bit closer to realistic than
they did in F1 2000. The sounds are more piercing, and carry
very well through the air - to the point that if you are
driving all alone in one section of the course, you are far
more likely to hear the competitors driving on the opposite
side of the course. This can also make it difficult in some
instances to determine exactly where the next batch of
traffic is on the course, especially at a circuit as small as
A1-Ring, or at Suzuka due to its figure-eight formation.
==============================================
TRAINING MODE
Risking to make this driving guide obsolete is the Training
Mode, which was not available in F1 2000. Even expert-level
drivers from F1 2000 should begin here, as the physics engine
of F1 Championship Season 2000 is somewhat different, thus
the overall handling of the cars is also a little different.
The biggest driving change between F1 2000 and F1
Championship Season 2000 is that this newer game requires
more use of the brakes, especially for aggressive drivers.
Training Mode uses the following colored cones to help you
see how to handle each corner of a given course:
Blue Cone Begin braking here
Orange Cone Begin cornering here
Yellow Cone This is the apex; begin acceleration
White Cone This is the exit; accelerate hard
Note that after a quick combination of corners or a chicane,
there will not be a white exit cone for each corner.
Instead, the white cone will follow that segment of the
course.
==============================================
SCENARIO MODE
One of the more interesting aspects of the 'upgrade' to F1
Championship Season 2000 is the new Scenario Mode. There are
fourteen total scenario races, each progressing in the level
of difficulty. Each scenario race takes place at a different
course, so it would be wise to become quite familiar with ALL
the courses before attempting Scenario Mode. Note that the
initial scenarios are set at the same level of difficulty as
Championship Mode.
Each scenario presents a realistic F1 situation, ranging from
simply finishing at or above a certain position, to simple
survival. As you progress through Scenario Mode, you will
also be presented with different types of weather, thus
affecting your driving and your overall strategy. Further,
for each Scenario race, you race as a different driver from
the 2000 F1 season (some drivers are 'repeated;' see below).
Many of these Scenario races are 'simple,' in that you need
to just drive and finish at or above a certain position.
However, some of the later Scenario races require quite a bit
of strategy, especially to receive a Gold Award; here, it
might be best to read the scenario, then wait and consider
the potential strategies for several hours first.
The initial Scenario races are fairly short, and can be
completed well within thirty minutes. The later Scenario
races will likely take longer. The fourteenth and final
Scenario race is a FULL race, so do not even attempt the
final scenario unless you have about two hours during which
you will not be interrupted by siblings, telephones, bathroom
breaks, hyperactive pets, etc.
Without giving away the challenges presented in Scenario
Mode, this is where the Scenario races are held, and the
driver you will be playing as:
Grand Prix of Australia Villeneuve
Grand Prix of Brazil Gene
Grand Prix of San Marino Coulthard
Grand Prix of Great Britain Button
Grand Prix of Spain Trulli
Grand Prix of Europe Coulthard
Grand Prix of Monaco Hakkinen
Grand Prix of Canada Wurtz
Grand Prix of Austria Verstappen
Grand Prix of Germany Alesi
Grand Prix of Belgium M. Schumacher
Grand Prix of the United States Irvine
Grand Prix of Japan Salo
Grand Prix of Malaysia M. Schumacher
In most of the Scenario races, obtaining the Gold Award is
fairly easy, so long as you keep the car on the track and in
good condition. However, a few races present significant
challenges, as you will start having already been lapped once
by the race leader. In order to win these races and obtain
their Gold Awards, two tactics come into play:
1.) Hope (pray to every deity you know, wish upon a star
before beginning the Scenario, etc.) for the race
leader to retire early.
2.) Drive aggressively and get into position to unlap
yourself, then purposely try to knock the leading car
off the track and into a barrier, hoping that a major
mechanical failure will cause him to retire early.
Of course, the latter option also presents a serious risk of
eliminating YOU from the race, or with the race stewards
(i.e., the CPU) assigning you a Stop-Go Penalty for
unsportsmanlike driving. Note that you will likely need
multiple tries to obtain a Gold Award when you start a
Scenario race one lap behind, so prepare to be highly
frustrated, and try not to throw the controller/wheel through
the television screen!!!!!!!!!
GRAND PRIX OF AUSTRALIA: ALBERT PARK
The 2000 F1 racing season begins with a set of 'flyaway'
(non-European) races. This fast, attractive circuit is built
around Melbourne's beautiful Albert Park Lake, using actual
city streets which generally receive little traffic. There
are usually plenty of trees on both sides of the track, with
a nice view of Melbourne's buildings as you come through
Turns 12 and 13. The Albert Park circuit features many long,
gentle, no-braking corners, allowing for incredible top-end
speed all around this completely-flat circuit. However,
these are tempered with several moderate- and hard-braking
corners, and dark shadows (especially in wet conditions)
obscuring long stretches of the pavement.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -3
Rear Downforce: -3
Ride Height: -3*
Rear Diffuser: +3
*This is an ABSOLUTELY FLAT course, so the only reason to
raise ride height is to slow the car for better cornering.
At Albert Park, this is really only an issue at Turns 3 and
15, and in the odd-formation Pit Lane Entry.
Pit Straight: The front straight is fairly long, following a
light-braking corner (Turn 16). However, Turn 1 requires an
early braking zone.
Turn 1: A moderate-braking right-hand corner. If you miss
the braking zone here, there is a wide area in which you can
recover. Traffic will often bunch up entering Turn 1.
Turn 2: Immediately following Turn 1, this is a gentle left-
hand turn which can be taken at full speed. Excellent
acceleration out of Turn 1 makes the exit of Turn 2 and the
ensuing straightaway a prime passing zone. Beware the
barrier on the right on exiting Turn 2.
Turn 3: This is a hard-braking right-hand corner following a
long straightaway. Again, there is a wide recovery area
here. A little speed can be made coming out of Turn 3, but
the straightaway is virtually non-existent, requiring
moderate braking for Turn 4. This is definitely NOT a place
to pass (safely) unless you have EXCELLENT brakes and little
or no tire wear. Traffic tends to bunch up here for Turns 3
and 4.
Turn 4: A left-hand corner requiring at least moderate
braking. To the outside of the corner is a wide, paved
recovery area; however, driving too far out to the right or
remaining on this paved area beyond the painted advertisement
will result in a Stop-Go Penalty. The inside of Turn 4 is
also a wide paved zone, but short-cutting Turn 4 by more than
one car length will also result in a Stop-Go Penalty. Good
acceleration out of Turn 4 can set up a good passing
opportunity.
Turn 5: A gentle right-hand corner through the trees which
leads to a nice straightaway. No braking is necessary here.
Turn 6: A semi-hidden moderate-braking right-hand corner.
Traffic will sometimes bunch up here, as drivers try to spot
the corner. A wide recovery zone is available here as well,
but take care not to shortcut the corner. While it is
possible to blast through Turn 6 without braking, doing so
will almost certainly result in loss of control (with
subsequent spinning, sliding, and/or crashing) due to the
angle of the rumble strips.
Turn 7: Immediately following Turn 6, Turn 7 is a very gentle
left-hand corner which brings you alongside the northernmost
end of Albert Park Lake.
Turn 8: This is almost not a turn at all, as it curves
extremely gently along the shoreline, but the course map on
the race's official Web site lists this as a corner.
Turn 9: The first piece of pavement to the right is NOT the
official corner; taking this bypass area results in a Stop-Go
Penalty if playing with Flags activated. The official corner
is a tight right-hand turn which requires moderate or hard
braking. Traffic almost always bunches up here.
Turn 10: This is almost not a turn at all, as it curves
extremely gently to the left and back along the shoreline.
There is absolutely NO room for error on the right side of
the track, as the pavement runs directly up against the
barrier. The view of Albert Park Lake is actually quite
serene from here (and the water is oh-so-blueŠ), but don't
take your eyes off the course!!! Once you pass underneath
the second pedestrian bridge and see the grandstands ahead on
the right, drift to the right to set up the best racing line
for Turns 11 and 12.
Turns 11 and 12: If you are not navigating traffic, Turns 11
and 12 can be taken at full speed (even at 200+ MPH),
although some drivers may feel more comfortable with tapping
the brakes once in each turn. However, sliding even one
pixel across the rumble strips on either side of the chicane
results in a Stop-Go Penalty. It is very easy to slide off
the pavement exiting this chicane if taken at top speed, so a
flawless racing line is crucial.
Straightaway: The pavement runs directly up against the
barrier on the left side of the course here, creating
problems for cars on the left whose engines suddenly expire.
Turn 13: This is a semi-blind right-hand corner requiring
moderate braking if you are alone; traffic tends to bunch up
here. The recovery area again is quite wide, with a long
run-off strip if needed. This leads to a short straightaway
which can be a prime passing zone if acceleration out of Turn
13 is strong. Note that is you were able to take Turns 11
and 12 without braking or navigating traffic, you can reach
over 210MPH just before entering Turn 13, making braking even
more important.
Turn 14: A light-braking, right-hand corner with a wide
recovery area. Experts should be able to take this corner at
top speed (if not in traffic) with a flawless racing line, or
by dropping the right-side tires onto the grass. This is a
good place to pass on braking upon entering the corner.
Turn 15: Do not be fooled by the run-off lane which proceeds
directly ahead into an unmoving barrier; there IS a turn to
the left here, requiring moderate braking. This is also a
good place to pass on braking when entering the corner. Note
that the Pit Entry is immediately to the right upon exiting
the corner, so be sure to look for cars moving slower than
expected as they enter Pit Lane.
Turn 16: Without traffic, this right-hand corner can be taken
at full speed if you slowed enough in Turn 15. But, be
careful with the approach and exit angles for this turn, as
the barrier (and a grandstand) is just a few feet off the
pavement on the left as you exit the corner. This leads onto
the Pit Straight.
Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins to the right immediately after
Turn 15. It is possible to enter at a fairly high speed, but
there will be a sharp turn to the right very quickly,
requiring moderate or heavy braking. Before entering the
main Pit area, however, is a tight right-left chicane, so be
prepared to truly slam on the brakes, or else the nose of
your car will slam into the Pit Lane barrier.
Special Note: It is possible to start down Pit Lane and then
return to the main course, or vice-versa. However, depending
on where you attempt to make this transition, you may be
given a Stop-Go Penalty.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF BRAZIL: INTERLAGOS
Most F1 courses are driven clockwise; built on a steep
hillside, Interlagos is driven counter-clockwise, which I
understand causes 'undue' fatigue to drivers' necks as the
race progresses. The upper part of the course features two
extensive segments of flat-out, full-throttle, top-speed
driving. However, the lower part of the course (where the
most clock time is spent) features tight corners and several
significant elevation changes. However, despite these two
very different sections of the circuit, the car set-up is not
quite as key here as at Indianapolis. Also, this is the
circuit where an advertisement billboard fell on a Prost car
during Qualifying in 2000.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: +1
Rear Downforce: +1
Ride Height: -1
Rear Diffuser: +2
Pit Straight: This is the highest point of the course in
terms of elevation. There is no room to pull off the course
here if there is a problem with a car, as the barriers rub
against the pavement on both sides of the track. This is
also the fastest portion of the course, leading into the most
dangerous set of corners at Interlagos. There are several
left-hand fades along the 'Pit Straight.' This
'straightaway' is the longest stretch of flat-out
acceleration of this course. The optimal racing line is hard
to the left, so be careful not to rub the left-side tires
against the barriers, especially when passing the Pit Lane
Entry. The Pit Entrance is also to the left, and cars may
enter here at top speed.
Turn 1 (S do Senna): Especially since this corner follows an
incredibly long and fast 'Pit Straight,' this is by far the
most dangerous turn on the course, and thus perhaps the most
dangerous corner in all of F1 racing. This is a tight, left-
hand, semi-blind, downhill corner requiring severe braking
long before reaching the turn. Unless you have PERFECT
confidence in your car's braking AND turning ability, this is
definitely NOT a place to pass!!! For those who overrun the
corner, there is a continent-size patch of kitty litter, but
there is also a two-level barrier; the first barrier is a
short segment, so it is possible (if necessary) to drive
behind this first barrier and come out on the other side in
the middle of Turn 3.
Turn 2 (S do Senna): Following immediately after Turn 1, this
right-hand corner can be taken at full speed (unless slower
traffic blocks the path) to set up prime passing
opportunities in Curva du Sol or along the following
straightaway. Amazingly, there is a small paved path between
the main track and the Pit Lane where the old Pit Lane met
the course (drivers used to rejoin the race at the outside of
Turn 2). F1 Championship Season 2000 does not penalize you
for leaving the main course via this short piece of pavement
and driving along the rest of the Pit Lane, which makes this
a great method for passing a large group of cars at once (the
Pit Lane rejoins the course just beyond the exit of Turn 3)
or for just reducing lap times; however, extreme caution must
be taken not to ram the barrier immediately on the left of
the Pit Lane when attempting this maneuver at full speed.
(Historical note: The Pit Lane used to rejoin the main course
at the exit of Turn 2, but FIA and the drivers deemed that
this was too dangerous.)
Turn 3 (Curva du Sol): Immediately following S do Senna, Turn
3 is a gentle left-hand corner which can also be taken at top
speed. Just beyond the exit of Turn 3, the Pit Lane rejoins
the main course on the left. Curva du Sol leads into the
second-longest straightaway of the circuit.
Straightaway: This long straightaway presents a gentle
downhill slope leading to the lower portion of the course.
Turn 4 (Lago): This corner truly begins the lower portion of
the course in terms of elevation. Lago is a semi-hidden
left-hand corner with a slight downward slope. Moderate
braking is necessary here to keep from sliding the car into
the recovery zone, especially if the track is wet. Good
acceleration out of Lago sets up great passing in the next
corner and along the following straightaway. Do not overrun
the course, or you will be slowed by the sand and grass.
Turn 5: A gentle left-hand turn, this can be taken at full
throttle. The course begins to slope upward again.
Straightaway: This is effectively the last straightaway
before the Pit Straight at the beginning of the course. The
course here slopes upward, so cars with excellent
acceleration out of Turns 4 and 5 can pass those with poor
uphill speed.
Turn 6 (Laranjinha): This is the beginning of a pair of
right-hand corners which effectively form a 'U' shape. The
entry of this corner can be taken at full throttle, but be
ready to touch the brakes at the exit of this corner. Turn 6
is also on the crown of a hill.
Turn 7 (Laranjinha): The final corner of a 'U' shape in the
course, this is a right-hand decreasing-radius corner with a
gentle downward slope.
Turn 8 (Curva do S): After an almost negligible straightaway,
this right-hand corner requires moderate braking. The course
also begins to slope downhill at the beginning of Turn 8.
Pinheirinho immediately follows.
Turn 9 (Pinheirinho): Immediately upon exiting Turn 8, slam
on the brakes again for the sharp left-hand Pinheirinho.
This is potentially a good place to pass other cars. Turn 9
is a long corner, however, so it is important to hug the apex
much longer than usual. Extreme caution must be taken here
if racing in wet conditions, or you will find yourself
sliding into the sand. The exit of Pinheirinho leads to an
upward-sloping straightaway.
Turn 10 (Bica do Pato): The entrance of Turn 10 begins the
final downward slope of the course, making this right-hand
corner even more difficult to navigate. Heavy braking and
excellent hands are required to maneuver the car safely
through this corner, especially in the rain. Good
acceleration is needed exiting Bica do Pato to pass traffic
in the next corner and ensuing straightaway. The kitty
litter is available if you overshoot the corner, but then you
will quickly find yourself rubbing against a barrier.
Turn 11 (Mergulho): This left-hand corner almost immediately
follows Bica do Pato and can be taken flat-out to provide
good speed along the next (very short) straightaway. Good
acceleration out of Bica do Pato makes this a good passing
zone if you have a decent racing line, otherwise you may find
yourself off the course on the outside of the corner.
Turn 12 (Juncao): This is a tight left-hand corner requiring
moderate to heavy braking. The final, steep uphill slope
begins here, and the exit of the corner is hidden (even in
chase view). It is extremely easy to run off the outside of
the corner here, but a small patch of grass and another paved
lane provide some run-off relief here. This corner leads to
the incredibly long Pit Straight.
Pit Entry: As you climb the long 'Pit Straight,' the Pit Lane
begins on the left. It is possible to fly into Pit Lane at
high speed.
Pit Exit: The Pit Lane once emptied onto the exit of Turn 2;
it now rejoins the main course just after the exit of Curva
du Sol. This makes Pit Lane extremely longŠ and F1
Championship Season 2000 refuses to give you control of your
car until you are effectively past Turn 2. This fact makes
it extremely important to select your pit strategy carefully
in long races.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF SAN MARINO: IMOLA
The Imola circuit is challenging but rather fun. Again, this
is a 'counterclockwise' circuit, but, oddly, the Pits and
Paddock are located on the outside of the circuit and not on
the inside. There is extremely little tolerance for
shortcutting the chicanes. Due to the slope of the grass on
the inside of the corner, Turn 6 (Tosa) is essentially a
blind corner unless traffic is present to mark the course for
you.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -3
Rear Downforce: -3
Ride Height: -1
Rear Diffuser: +3
Pit Straight: This is a long straightaway, which enables high
speeds as the cars cross the Start/Finish Line. Good exit
speed out of the final chicane makes for prime passing and a
good show for the spectators. The Pit Straight fades to the
left at the exit of Pit Lane (which is aligned with the
Start/Finish Line). Once past the Pits, there is a barrier
directly against the right side of the track.
Turns 1 and 2 (Tamburello): This is a left-right chicane.
Turn 1 requires moderate braking, but if you slow enough in
Turn 1, you should be able to drive at full throttle through
Turn 2 and beyond. There is slight tolerance for cutting the
corners here, but not much. If you try to take the entire
chicane at full speed, you can make it through Turn 1 fairly
well, but you will quickly find yourself in the grass on the
outside of Turn 2 and banging against the nearby barrier. If
you completely miss the braking zone for Turn 1, there is a
huge sand trap to help you recover.
Turn 3 (Tamburello): Immediately following Turn 2, Turn 3 is
a soft left-hand corner which can be taken at full speed.
Strong acceleration out of Turn 1 makes this a good passing
zone. Following this corner is a significant straightaway.
Turns 4 and 5 (Villeneuve): This is another left-right
chicane, but not as lengthy as the first. Care must be taken
not to slide off the course at the exit of Turn 5. It is
possible for experts to fly through this chicane at top speed
(if not encumbered by traffic) by rolling up on the rumble
strips, but doing so produces a significant chance of losing
control of the car. The course slopes upward at the exit of
this chicane.
Turn 6 (Tosa): This is a semi-blind left-hand corner which
continues the upward slope of the course. Moderate or even
severe braking is required here, or else your car will be in
the kitty litter and headed toward the spectators. Traffic
is actually a benefit in approaching this corner, as the
course is largely hidden from view given the slope of the
grass on the inside of the corner, but other cars are easy to
see.
Straightaway: The course continues up the hill here, cresting
underneath the overhead Firestone advertisement. Just beyond
the ad, the track fades to the right as it begins its gentle
downward slope, but then leads directly into Piratella.
Turn 7 (Piratella): The course continues downward here, with
the slope increasing. This is a left-hand semi-blind corner.
It is rather easy to slip off the pavement here and into the
kitty litter on the outside of the corner. Any passing here
is best made tight to the apex of the corner, perhaps with
only the right-side wheels on the pavement or rumble strip.
Turn 8: Barely a corner at all but more than a fade, the
course gently turns to the left here as the track passes
under an Arexons banner. This is a full-speed 'corner.'
Turns 9 and 10 (Mineralli): This is a pair of right-hand
corners which effectively function as a decreasing-radius 'U'
formation and are best taken in this manner. Turn 9 can be
taken at full speed, but upon exit to the outside of Turn 9,
heavy braking is needed and extra steering to the right is
required to safely navigate around the decreasing-radius Turn
10. The track begins another (steep) uphill slope in Turn
10. Tightly hugging the apex allows for prime passing
through Turn 10. Care must be taken not to enter Turn 10 too
fast, or else you will be off the course on the left. If you
do find yourself off-course, you MUST turn sharply to the
right to get back onto the pavement, as Turn 11 immediately
follows and the CPU allows virtually no tolerance here for
shortcutting.
Turn 11 (Mineralli): Immediately following Turn 10, the left-
hand Turn 11 continues the upward slope of the course. There
is almost no CPU tolerance for shortcutting here, so it is
very important to remain on-course here. Care must be taken
not to slip off to the right of the track as you pass
underneath the EA Sports banner.
Turns 12-13 (Alta Chicane): This is a right-left chicane,
beginning underneath the EuroBusiness banner. There is NO
tolerance for shortcutting here. Other cars generally slow
significantly for this chicane, so a full-speed maneuver here
in traffic is not advised. In fact, attempting to take this
chicane at top speed will require rolling up on the rumble
strips, and you will likely lose control and either spin or
collide with the all-too-close barrier to the right side of
the course. The barrier to the outside of Turn 13 is very
close to the track, so be careful not to slip off the course.
Straightaway: The course begins its final downhill slope
here, fading gently first to the left, then to the right.
Turns 14 and 15 (Rivazza): This is a left-hand 'U' formation.
Moderate braking is required entering Turn 14, but then Turn
15 can be taken at full speed (if you slowed enough in Turn
14), although some may feel more comfortable lightly tapping
the brakes here. Caution must be taken to use enough braking
entering the 'U' formation, or else you will end up in the
sand on the right side of the track.
Straightaway: This is the final long straightaway before
reaching the Pit Straight. However, the official course
fades to the right just after passing underneath the Helix
banner; driving straight ahead (the pavement of the old
course) and thus missing the entire final chicane results in
a Stop-Go Penalty. The end of this straightaway provides two
options: 1.) Keep driving straight ahead onto Pit Lane; 2.)
Turn left for the final chicane.
Turns 16 and 17 (Bassa Chicane): This is the final chicane
(left-right) of the course. There is NO tolerance for
shortcutting here. To the outside of Turn 16 is the Pit Lane
entry, so be mindful of slower cars entering Pit Lane as you
approach the chicane. Moderate braking is required entering
Turn 16, but then Turn 17 requires light braking.
Pit Entry: Instead of turning left for Turn 16, keep driving
directly ahead. However, there is no room for slowing once
you leave the main course, so stay tight to the right side of
the pavement as you slow to enter Pit Lane.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF GREAT BRITAIN: SILVERSTONE
For the 2000 F1 season, the British Grand Prix was moved up
in the racing calendar, and resulted in a very wet weekend
(although the race itself was semi-sunny). Built on an
airport site, this historic course features wide run-off
areas in most places. At last, this course is a return to
normal, 'clockwise' racing.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -2
Rear Downforce: -2
Ride Height: -2
Rear Diffuser: +3
Pit Straight: The Start/Finish Line is directly at the
beginning of the Pit Straight. There is no room for error on
the right side of the track, as the Pit Lane barrier is
directly against the pavement.
Turn 1 (Copse): This is a moderate right-hand corner which
can be taken at full speed, but be careful to not run off the
course at the exit of the turn. The best racing line is to
tightly hug the apex, but the Pit Lane barrier is right there
against the pavement, so it is imperative to keep the right-
side tires from rubbing the barrier. Turn 1 exits onto a
long straightaway.
Straightaway: The Pit Lane rejoins the main course from the
right about 1/3 of the way along the straight.
Turns 2-5 (Bechetts): This is a set of left-right-left-right
'S' curves. Turns 2 and 4 can be taken at full speed or with
very quick tapping of the brakes, but Turns 3 and 5 require
moderate or even heavy braking. If using the suggested car
set-up, EACH corner of Bechetts will require braking.
Turn 6 (Chapel): This is a gentle left-hand corner which can
be taken at full speed. This opens onto Hangar Straight.
Straightaway (Hangar Straight): At 738.28m, this is the
longest straightaway of the course. Good acceleration out of
Turn 5 (the final corner of Bechetts) can lead to good
passing opportunities along Hangar Straight and/or entering
the braking zone for Turn 7 (Stowe). To your left is the
Roger Clark Circuit, owned and operated by the same
organization which owns and operates this Grand Prix Circuit.
Turn 7 (Stowe): Light or moderate braking will be required
here in order to remain on the pavement. This is a tricky,
sweeping, right-hand corner followed immediately by a left-
hand semi-corner. This is the southernmost point of the
course.
Straightaway (Vale): If you can somehow successfully navigate
Turn 7 (Stowe) without braking, then you should be able to
continue passing others fairly easily along Vale, especially
if they had to brake heavily in Stowe.
Turns 8 and 9 (Club): There is a stretch of pavement to the
left, but that is NOT the official course; in fact, it has a
tall barrier blocking a clear path for those who wish to
accumulate a Stop-Go Penalty. The official corner is a tight
left-hand turn followed by the increasing-radius right-hand
Turn 9, leading out onto another long straightaway (Abbey
Straight).
Turns 10 and 11 (Abbey): Like the previous set of corners,
there is another stretch of pavement to the left which is not
part of the official course; as before, this patch of
pavement is blocked by a tall barrier, and taking this route
will accumulate a Stop-Go Penalty. The official Turn 10 is a
tight left-hand corner, but not as tight as Turn 8. This is
immediately followed by a light-braking Turn 11, a right-hand
corner. Be careful not to slip off the course and rub the
nearby barrier on exiting Abbey.
Straightaway (Farm Straight): With good acceleration out of
Abbey, good passing opportunities can be made here.
Turn 12 (Bridge): Immediately after passing underneath the
pedestrian bridge, you will enter a complex similar to The
Stadium at Hokkenheim. This is a right-hand corner which can
likely be taken at full speed.
Turn 13 (Priory): This left-hand corner will require light
or moderate braking.
Turn 14 (Brooklands): Another left-hand corner, this one
requires moderate braking. There is a small sand trap for
those who miss the braking zone.
Turn 15 (Luffield): This set of right-hand corners
essentially form a 'U' shape, and both require moderate or
severe braking to avoid sliding off into the kitty litter.
The exit of Luffield can be taken flat-out all the way to
Turn 2. The entry to Pit Lane is on the left shortly leaving
Luffield.
Turn 16 (Woodcote): Barely a corner but more than a fade, the
course eases to the right here. At the exit of the corner is
the Start/Finish Line, and the right-side barrier begins
abruptly here (be careful not to hit it).
Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins to the right between Luffield
and Woodcote. The new Pit Lane has a gentle right-hand
swing, so you can come into Pit Lane at top speed and have
plenty of room to slow.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF SPAIN: CATALUNYA
The Catalunya circuit is challenging, especially the two
hairpins and the final corners of the race. For observers
and drivers alike, plenty of action can be found at the
Spanish Grand Prix.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -3
Rear Downforce: -3
Ride Height: -2
Rear Diffuser: +3
Pit Straight: As usual, incredible speeds can be attained
here. Watch for cars rejoining the race from the right side
of the straightaway.
Turn 1 (Elf): This is a right-hand corner which requires
light braking. Be careful not to hug the inside of the
corner too tightly, or you will damage your right-side tires
on the barrier. Strong acceleration out of Turn 1 creates
great passing opportunities all the way to Repsol.
Attempting to take Turn 1 at top speed will either cause you
to lose control as you run up on the rumble strips, or send
you too far off course to survive Turn 2.
Turn 2 (Elf): Immediately following Turn 1, the left-hand
Turn 2 can usually be taken at top acceleration. With strong
acceleration out of Turn 1, this is a prime passing zone.
Turn 3 (Seat): A sweeping right-hand increasing-radius corner
which can be taken at full speed, this is also a good place
to pass slower cars, especially if you have the inside line.
Turn 4 (Repsol): This is a semi-blind right-hand hairpin
corner which requires moderate or heavy braking. The barrier
on the inside of the corner rests almost directly against the
track, and blocks your view around the corner. This can
actually be a good place to pass on braking, but only with
extreme caution. Don't come too hot into this corner or else
you will find yourself in the sand. After clearing the first
90 degrees, you should be able to accelerate fairly well if
not encumbered by traffic.
Turn 5: After a very short straightaway, this is a semi-blind
left-hand hairpin, a bit tighter than Turn 4. Moderate or
heavy braking will be needed here, or you will definitely be
using the recovery area.
Straightaway: This straightaway fades to the left. Good
acceleration out of Turn 5 can create passing opportunities,
especially in the braking zone for Wuth.
Turn 6 (Wuth): With a good racing line, you should be able to
brake lightly to clear this semi-blind, slightly-downhill,
left-hand corner. Beware the barrier on the inside of Wuth.
The angle of the rumble strip along the apex in relation to
the short patch of grass is rather odd; if you roll your
left-side tires onto the grass, you may quickly lose control
of the car, causing the vehicle to slide or even spin. The
exit of Wuth has an immediate fade to the right.
Turn 7 (Campsa): This right-hand corner can be taken at full
speed, although other cars will usually swing wide-left and
brake slightly while rounding this corner. Note that the
official circuit is to the right; do not drive directly ahead
onto another patch of pavement, or you will be assigned a
Stop-Go Penalty.
Turn 8 (La Cacsa): Severe braking is required for this left-
hand corner. While not suggested, you may be able to pass
other cars on braking here. As with Wuth, stay off the
rumble strips and grass on the inside of the turn, or you
will risk losing control of the car. This is a 'J' turn, and
the corner seems to go on forever before you reach the exit.
Turn 9 (Banc Sabadeau): Shortly following Turn 8, moderate or
heavy braking will be needed here for the right-hand, upward-
sloping corner. This is also a 'J' turn which is nearly a
double-apex corner. If you need a recovery area anywhere on
the course, it will most likely be here. It is possible to
pass slower cars here by tightly hugging the inside of the
turn, even running the right-side tires on the rumble strips.
Turn 10: Light braking may be needed for this right-hand
corner. The key here is to truly hug the inside of the turn
and accelerate strongly through the exit. Watch for slow
cars here preparing to go to Pit Lane for servicing.
Turn 11: Entering this right-hand corner, the Pit Lane begins
on the right, so be on the lookout for very slow cars here.
If you take this final corner too tightly, or make a VERY
late decision to go to the pits, you will likely damage the
front of the car on a barrier.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF EUROPE: NURBURGRING
>From a driving standpoint, the hilly Nurburgring circuit is
very much characterized by its tight corners. Thus, tire
wear is a definite issue in long races here, especially in
wet conditions. Even more important, however, is braking
early for almost every corner; perhaps only the streets of
Monaco require more braking than does the Nurburgring
circuit.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -2
Rear Downforce: -2
Ride Height: -1
Rear Diffuser: -3
Pit Straight: This straightaway is fairly long, but the
Start/Finish Line is near the exit of the final corner. The
Pit Lane rejoins the course near the end of the Pit Straight,
just before the Castrol S.
Turns 1 and 2 (Castrol S): Light or moderate braking is
required before entering the right-left 'S' curve. It is
quite easy to miss seeing the entry to the Castrol S unless
traffic is present to mark the corner for you. Until you
know the course really well, expect to find yourself driving
straight ahead into the recovery area. Also, be careful not
to drive too wide exiting the Castrol S. Caution must be
taken here on the first lap of a race, as the traffic truly
bunches up here.
Turn 3: Light braking will be necessary for this left-hand
corner. However, hard braking will be required for the Ford
Curve ahead. Beginning at the top of Turn 3, the course
moves downhill.
Turn 4 (Ford Curve): This is a hard right-hand corner,
practically a 'J' curve. The course resumes an uphill slope
here. Braking too late here means a trip through the kitty
litter, while riding up on the inside rumble strips usually
means losing control of the car. This is definitely NOT a
place to pass unless absolutely necessary.
Straightaway: The course fades to the left here. If you can
accelerate well out of the Ford Curve, you should be able to
pass several cars here.
Turn 5 (Dunlop Curve): Severe braking for this hairpin is a
mustŠ unless you really want to drive through the sand.
Again, rolling up on the rumble strips on the inside of the
curve will likely cause you to lose control of the car. The
course continues gently uphill here toward the Audi S.
Turns 6 and 7 (Audi S): Entering the left-right Audi S, the
uphill slope of the course increases, making it very
difficult to see the course more than a few feet ahead. The
exit of Turn 6 is the crest of this hill; Turn 7 begins a
slight downhill slope. Unless traffic blocks your racing
line, the entire Audi S section can be taken at top speed, so
good acceleration out of the Dunlop Curve will be very
beneficial for passing entering Turn 6 and/or exiting Turn 7.
Turn 8 (RTL Curve): With the rise in the course entering the
left-hand RTL Curve, this appears to be identical to Turn 6
on approach. However, you MUST use moderate braking entering
the RTL Curve, of you will definitely be in the grass on the
outside of the curve. This corner is followed by the gentler
BIT Curve.
Turn 9 (BIT Curve): This right-hand curve quickly follows the
RTL Curve, forming an 'S' curve. If you have a good racing
line exiting the RTL Curve, you should be able to speed
through the BIT Curve without any problem.
Turn 10 (Bilstein-Bogen): This is a gentle right-hand semi-
corner which can be taken at full throttle. From here to the
Veedal S, the course makes its final and steepest upward
slope.
Turns 11 and 12 (Veedal S): This is an extremely tight left-
right made even worse for the drivers by its placement at the
very crest of the hill. For those who overshoot the chicane,
there is a patch of pavement which bypasses the chicane and
rejoins the main course, but those taking this route are
greeted with a Stop-Go Penalty. Only experts can fly through
the Veedal S at full speed; even then, the car is very likely
to spin or careen straight into a barrier.
Turn 13 (Coca-Cola Curve): A 'J' turn to the right, moderate
braking is required here to keep from sliding off the course.
The entry of the Coca-Cola Curve is also where the Pit Lane
begins, so cars may be slowing on approach to go to the pits
for servicing. This is the final corner of the circuit.
Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins at the entry of the final
corner. It is extremely important to slow down before
entering Pit Lane; if you come in too fast, you will
certainly damage the front of the car on the barrier.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF MONACO: MONTE CARLO (TEMPORARY STREET CIRCUIT)
'To finish first, first you must finish.' The Monaco circuit
is a highly daunting temporary street course, especially from
the Driver View or the Front Wing View, as the barriers are
FAR too close for comfort, and passing is virtually
impossible for even expert drivers. If there is a problem
with a car, there are extremely few places to safely pull
aside, so all drivers must be constantly wary of damaged
vehicles, especially slow or stationary cars around the many
blind corners. The most significant key to simply finishing
a race at Monaco is SURVIVAL, which means a slow, methodical,
patient race. Aggressive drivers (like myself) would almost
certainly end up dead - or at least driving an extremely
beat-up vehicle - driving the Monaco circuit for real!!! For
a comparison, the Surfer's Paradise circuit in Newman-Haas
Racing is a sweet dream compared to the Monaco circuit!!!!!
Fortunately, the new physics engine of F1 Championship Season
2000 makes the Monaco circuit a little easier than the same
course in F1 2000, but this is still - by far - the most
challenging circuit in the game.
Tip: F1 Championship Season 2000 allows you to toggle the
Fuel/Damage Indicator on and off at will. When driving at
Monaco, this Indicator should be on at all times. This
course is so unbelievably TIGHT that even the most cautious
of drivers will likely bump a barrier (or another car) fairly
oftenŠ and all those bumps WILL eventually take their toll.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +3
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: +3*
Rear Downforce: +3*
Ride Height: -2
Rear Diffuser: +3
*The downforce options are purposely set much higher than
usual to assist in cornering. The Monaco circuit simply does
not allow for a high-speed set-up.
Pit Straight: Not straight at all, the 'Pit Straight' fades
to the right along its entire length. Near the end, the Pit
Lane rejoins the main course from the right.
Turn 1 (Sainte Devote): This is a tight right-hand semi-blind
corner; heavy braking is required long before reaching Sainte
Devote. To the left on entering this corner is one of the
few areas to pull off the course if there is a problem.
Overshooting the corner results in smashing the front wing
against the unmoving barrier. The uphill portion of the
course begins here.
Straightaway (Beau Rivage): Not really straight with its
varying-direction fades, the circuit climbs steeply uphill
here. Because of the fades, this is actually NOT a passing
zone; you may think you have enough room to pass a slower car
and actually pull up alongside it, but then you and the
slower vehicle will end up bumping each other and/or a
barrier because of a fade.
Turn 2 (Massanet): This is a sweeping decreasing-radius left-
hand blind corner requiring moderate braking on entry and
light braking as you continue through the turn. If you come
in too fast, the corner workers will be scraping the right
side of your car off the barrier at the end of the race; if
you take the corner too tightly, the same will happen for the
left side of the car. The exit of Massanet is the highest
elevation of the circuitŠ which has only just begun, even if
it IS all 'downhill' from here!!!
Turn 3 (Casino): Light or moderate braking will be needed for
the right-hand Casino. This corner almost immediately
follows Massanet, and begins the long downward trajectory of
the course. This corner is actually wider than most, to the
extent that a car in trouble may be parked along the barrier
on the outside of the corner. Be careful not to scrape the
left-side barrier while exiting Turn 3; similarly, do not
overcompensate and scrape the right-side barrier at the apex
of Casino.
Turn 4 (Mirabeau): Following a long downhill straightaway,
heavy braking is needed for this right-hand blind 'J' turn.
A small pull-off area is provided on the left on entry. If
you miss the braking zone, your front end will be crushed up
against yet another barrier. This corner continues the
course's downhill slope, which adds to the difficulty of the
turn.
Turn 5 (Great Curve): Following an extremely short
straightaway, this left-hand hairpin is one of the slowest in
all of F1 racing. If you have excellent braking ability, you
can actually PASS (a rarity!!!) by taking the tight inside
line; otherwise, it would be best to drive through the Great
Curve single-file.
Turns 6 and 7 (Portier): This pair of right-hand corners form
a 'U' shape, but neither can be taken at any respectable
speed. Between these two corners is a pull-off area on the
left, with another to the left on exiting the 'U' formation.
Turn 7 is the slowest of the two corners, and is the most
difficult in terms of the almost-nonexistent view of the
track. Accelerating too soon out of Turn 7 means banging the
left side of the car against yet another immovable barrier.
Straightaway (The Tunnel): This 'straightaway' is actually a
very long right-hand fade in a semi-tunnel (the left side
provides a clear view of the water). However, even on a
sunny day, visibility here is poor due to the sun being at a
'wrong' angle compared to the circuitŠ and made even worse
should you be following a car with a malfunctioning or
expired engine. Start braking shortly after entering back
into the sunlight (assuming Dry Weather is active) for the
chicane.
Chicane (Nouveau Chicane): The course narrows as you come
around the chicane, but then 'widens' back to 'normal' at the
exit. Fortunately, F1 Championship Season 2000 has removed
the barrier on the inside of the chicane which made this a
treacherous configuration in F1 2000; however, if you attempt
to speed in a straight line over the rumble strips, you are
quite likely to lose control of the car and either careen
into the right-side barrier following the chicane, or spin
and hit barriers on both sides of the chicane's exit.
Turn 8 (Tobacco): This left-hand corner is best taken with
light braking, although it can be cleared with no braking
(not suggested, even for experts) with sufficient downforce,
no traffic, and a FLAWLESS racing line.
Turns 9-12 (Swimming Pool): This is essentially a double
chicane around the swimming pool in the classic 'bus stop'
configuration. Turns 9 and 10 form a tight left-right
combination, for which moderate braking is required, although
little or no braking can be used if you roll straight over
the rumble strips. After an extremely brief straightaway,
Turns 11 and 12 form the opposite configuration (right-left),
but are even tighter. This opens out onto a short
straightaway where you MIGHT be able to pass ONE car.
Turns 13 and 14 (La Rascasse): This is a tight left-right
chicane requiring moderate braking for Turn 13 and heavy
braking for Turn 14. Even worse, Turn 14 is a 'J' turn, so
the racing line is also very important here. The Pit Lane is
to the right at the exit of this chicane.
Turns 15 and 16 (Anthony Hoges): A tight right-left chicane,
these are the final corners of the Monaco circuit. The
course narrows here through the chicane, then 'widens' to
'normal' for the Pit Straight.
Pit Entry: The entrance to the Pit Lane is to the right
immediately after clearing La Rascasse. Given that La
Rascasse is a blind corner, on every lap, expect a slower car
here headed for the pits.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF CANADA: CIRCUIT GILLES VILLENEUVE
This incredible circuit is built on an island, accessible to
spectators only via subway. Much of the course runs along
the southern and northern shores of the island. This course
is also unusual in that the paddock area is to the outside of
the course (as at Imola), along the northern shore of the
island. The long, sweeping straightaways provide for
excellent top-end speed - a much-welcome change from the
slow, tight corners and the many unforgiving barriers of the
streets of Monaco (the previous race circuit in Championship
Mode) - but there are several tight corners here to challenge
both drivers and cars. Mind the Casino Hairpin (Turn 10),
the westernmost corner of the course. Also tricky is the
Senna Curve, as it immediately follows the first corner of
the race.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -2
Rear Downforce: -2
Ride Height: -3*
Rear Diffuser: +2
*The Circuit Gilles Villeneuve is almost perfectly flat, so
the only reason to raise ride height is for better cornering
due to slower top-end speed.
Pit Straight: This follows the final chicane of the circuit.
As the Pit Lane rejoins the main course from the left, the
Pit Straight fades to the right, setting up Turn 1. If you
were successful in flying through the final chicane at top
speed without needing to navigate traffic, you will likely be
pushing 200MPH at the Start/Finish Line.
Turn 1: This left-hand corner will require moderate braking,
and immediately flows into the Senna Curve. There is a patch
of extra pavement on the right before entering Turn 1, but it
is set too far back to be useful in attempting to gain a
better racing line.
Turn 2 (Senna Curve): This is a right-hand hairpin corner
requiring heavy or severe braking. It is very easy to run
too wide here, slipping off into the grass. Likewise, it is
rather easy to overcompensate and cut the corner, which can
result in a Stop-Go Penalty or cause the car to spin if taken
too fast. Extreme caution is required here if racing in wet
conditions, as the severity of the hairpin can itself cause
the car to slide. Perhaps the best tactic is to enter Turn 1
from the extreme right of the pavement, and brake smoothly
all the way through to just beyond the apex of Senna Curve
before accelerating again. A moderate straightaway follows
the Senna Curve, so acceleration from the exit is important.
Turns 3 and 4: This right-left chicane can provide a good
passing zone. Turn 3 is tight and semi-blind, but passing on
braking is an option for those who know the chicane well.
Turn 4 is an easier corner, allowing good acceleration on
exit, but it is still easy to overshoot the exit of the
chicane and bang the right side of the car against the nearby
barrier. If you overshoot the entry to the chicane, you will
be given a Stop-Go Penalty if you attempt to simply edge back
onto the main course. Expert drivers can blast through this
chicane at full acceleration by making judicious use of the
rumble strips.
Straightaway: At the end of this moderate straightaway, the
course fades to the left, followed by Turn 5. Light braking
may be required at the fade if navigating traffic.
Turn 5: This sweeping right-hand corner can be taken at full
speed, unless you are coping with traffic. Be careful not to
hug the apex too tightly, or your right-side tires will be on
the grass here.
Turn 6: This left-hand corner will require moderate braking,
or you will be flying through the grass toward the spectators
in Grandstand 33. Minor shortcutting of this corner is
allowed by the CPU, which may be beneficial here for passing
on braking. This leads out to a very brief straightaway.
Turn 7: Following a very short straightaway, Turn 7 is a
light-braking right-hand corner. On the outside of Turn 7 is
a short, steep hillside with a barrier, so DO NOT run wide
entering the corner, as it is possible to send the vehicle
airborne!!! It is easy to run wide on exit and slip off the
course and into the barrier on the left, so be careful.
Straightaway: The course runs along the southern shore of the
island here. Unfortunately, the extremely tall barrier
prevents much of a viewŠ which actually forces your eyes to
be transfixed on the road and any other cars ahead. Once you
pass underneath the pedestrian bridge, begin braking for the
upcoming chicane.
Turns 8 and 9: This right-left chicane is similar to Turns 6
and 7 in that overrunning the chicane leaves you driving
through the sand directly toward another grandstand full of
spectators. Moderate braking will be needed to safely enter
the chicane's tight right-hand corner. The second corner of
the chicane is a gentler left-hand turn, but you might still
run off the pavement on exit and grind the right side of the
car against the barrier, or roll up on the rumble strips on
the inside of the corner and lose control of the car.
Accelerate strongly out of the chicane to set up passing
possibilities along the following straightaway and into
Casino Hairpin. Nowhere on the course is there less CPU
tolerance for shortcutting than in this chicane; if you
overshoot the first corner, you can certainly expect to
receive a Stop-Go Penalty.
Straightaway: About two-thirds of the way along, the course
fades to the left. Begin braking early for Casino Hairpin
unless you really want to slip through the sand trap; to
begin braking after passing underneath the second pedestrian
bridge is almost certainly too late for this braking zone.
Turn 10 (Casino Hairpin): This is a tight right-hand hairpin
requiring heavy or even severe braking, depending on when you
begin braking for the corner. Somehow, this corner seems to
be longer than it really is, so be judicious with the
accelerator until you see clear, straight track ahead.
Straightaway: On exiting Turn 10, the course fades to the
right, then back to the left. However, no braking is
required here.
Turn 11: Officially marked on course maps as a corner, the
course actually only fades to the right here, thus no braking
is required. You should be fairly high up in the gearbox by
the time you reach Turn 11.
Straightaway (Casino Straight): The Casino Straight (named
for the casino in the middle of the island) runs parallel to
the northern shore of the island on which the course is
built; there is not much of a view to the left, but it is not
very interesting anyhow (especially when compared to Albert
Park Lake). This is by far the longest straightaway of the
entire course, so much of the time spent here will be in your
car's top gear, quite possibly achieving speeds over 200MPH.
The Casino Straight leads to the final (right-left) chicane
of the course, as well as the entry for Pit Lane. The Casino
de Montreal is the grayish complex off the course to the
right as you drive between the final two pedestrian bridges.
Turns 12 and 13: This is a right-left chicane which can be
cleared (without traffic) with light or moderate braking.
For experts, this chicane can be taken at full speed and no
braking, but only with a flawless racing line and a perfect
knowledge of the corners. The exit of Turn 13 has a wide
odd-colored lane of concrete to allow for some swing-out;
nonetheless, be careful not to bump the barrier. The exit of
the chicane flows onto the Pit Straight. The Pit Lane entry
runs straight ahead in line with the Casino Straight, so cars
slowing on the left are likely heading in for servicing, and
may block your optimal racing line if you are continuing on-
course.
Pit Entry: As you enter the final (right-left) chicane, the
Pit Entry runs straight ahead. Once clear of the main
course, there is very little room for deceleration before the
Pit Lane's own tight right-left chicane, so it is very
important to slow down on Casino Straight before reaching the
Pit Entry. Keep as far to the left as possible when slowing
on Casino Straight, allowing other cars to keep to the right
as they prepare for the final chicane.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF FRANCE: NEVERS MAGNY-COURS
The Magny-Cours circuit is characterized by long, sweeping
straightaways, and fairly quick corners. The Adelaide hairpin
will almost definitely cause trouble, especially for
aggressive drivers, and rivals the La Source hairpin at Spa-
Francorchamps as the slowest corner in all of F1 racing.
This is a very fun course to drive (admittedly a very
subjective statement), but its layout can produce problems
from the standpoint of hearing other cars: Three of its main
straightaways are almost exactly parallel to each other with
little distance and no large obstacles between them,
sometimes making it difficult to determine where other cars
are truly located around you as you try to anticipate where
the next group of traffic that you will need to navigate is
located. The circuit also has extremely wide areas along
most of the main course to pull aside should a car have a
major malfunction.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -3
Rear Downforce: +3
Ride Height: -3
Rear Diffuser: -1
Pit Straight: Following the tight High School chicane, strong
acceleration through the Pit Straight creates good passing
chances through Great Curve and into Estoril. However, the
tightness of the High School chicane and the incredibly close
proximity of the Pit Lane barrier requires immense caution as
you come onto the Pit Straight. The Start/Finish Line is
about halfway down the Pit Straight; the Pit Lane rejoins the
course from the left at this point.
Turn 1 (Great Curve): In accordance with its name, this is a
wide left-hand corner which can be taken flat-out.
Turn 2 (Estoril): Either light or moderate braking will be
needed for entering the VERY long right-hand 180-degree
Estoril; in either case, you will almost certainly be tapping
the brakes repeatedly through Estoril. It is quite easy to
roll the right-side tires off onto the grass, and it is just
as easy to slip off on the grass on the outside of Estoril.
Straightaway (Golf): The Golf Straight if by far the longest
of the course and includes several fades to the right.
Turn 3 (Adelaide): The right-hand Adelaide hairpin is
EXTREMELY tight. The key here is to brake EARLY, as you will
be downshifting from your top gear to your lowest gear
rapidly; if you begin braking too late, you will be off in
the grass. If you accelerate too soon out of Adelaide, you
will be rolling through the kitty litter and losing valuable
track position.
Straightaway: Acceleration out of Adelaide is important for
passing other cars here. There are a few fades in the course
here.
Turns 4 and 5 (Nurburgring): This is a right-left chicane
which will require light braking. It is possible to fly
through Nurburgring without braking by making use of the
bright-green extension on the inside of Turn 5; however, if
you remain on the bright-green extension for too long, you
will be assigned a Stop-Go Penalty.
Turn 6 (180 Degrees): This is quite true - the official name
of this corner is '180 Degrees' according to the official Web
site of Magny-Cours. This is a wide left-hand hairpin
nestled well within the Estoril hairpin. Running too wide
here will put you out in the sand; running too close to the
apex could put you up on the rumble strips and force you to
lose control.
Straightaway: The third of the three parallel-running
straightaways, this 'straightaway' has several fades before
the Imola chicane.
Turns 7 and 8 (Imola): This right-left chicane should require
light braking, except for cars with a flawless racing line.
A short straightaway out of Imola sets up the Water Castle
curve. There is not much CPU tolerance for running off the
course here.
Turn 9 (Water Castle): Somewhere between a standard 'J' turn
and a hairpin, this is an increasing-radius right-hand corner
leading into the final straightaway of the circuit.
Turns 10 and 11 (High School): There is a false line of
pavement to the right as you near the official chicane; this
false pavement runs directly up to an immovable barrier. The
official chicane requires moderate braking on entering, and
allows for a VERY short burst of acceleration on exit. There
is yet another bright-green extension on the inside of Turn
10, but taking this risks acquiring a Stop-Go Penalty. If
you completely miss this chicane, you will both accumulate a
Stop-Go Penalty and blast through the sand trap and break the
front end on a perpendicular barrier blocking direct access
to Pit Lane.
Turn 12 (High School): On entry, the Pit Lane begins to the
left. The official corner is a TIGHT right-hand turn which
requires moderate or even heavy braking; wheel lock is very
much a possibility here, especially in wet conditions. If
you miss the corner, you will blast through the all-too-brief
sand trap and ram directly against a barrier and bounce
backward into any cars behind you. If you roll up on the
inside of the corner, the angle of the rumble strips to the
pavement will almost certainly cause your car to spin.
Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins to the left at the entry of
Turn 12. The Pit Lane has its own sharp right-hand turn
almost immediately, so it is best to begin slowing (or
rather, barely accelerating) as you leave the High School
chicane.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF AUSTRIA: A1-RING
This course may only have seven corners, the fewest of the
circuits used in the 2000 racing season, but it is still
quite challenging for the drivers. The course itself is
built on a hillside, with the Paddock area and the Pit
Straight located at the lowest elevation of the course. The
significant elevation changes and poorly-placed barriers make
this a particularly challenging circuit to safely navigate
for 90+ minutes.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -2
Rear Downforce: -2
Ride Height: -1
Rear Diffuser: +2
Pit Straight: Long and straight; main grandstands to the
left, Pit Lane to the right. Rather mundane, except that the
entire Pit Straight has a slow uphill climb into the Castrol
Curve.
Turn 1 (Castrol Curve): After a rather mundane Pit Straight,
the Castrol Curve is anything but mundane. This is a right-
hand uphill corner which requires moderate braking. The Pit
Lane rejoins the main course on the right at the exit of the
corner, but the Pit Lane barrier ends just before the
entrance to Castrol Curve, meaning that if you really need to
avoid an accident (or a large group of cars) on Castrol, you
can suddenly jump over to the end of the Pit LaneŠ without
receiving a Stop-Go Penalty from the CPU. Because of the
steep slope of the hill, it is all too easy to drive off the
outside of the corner and into the massive sand trap. If you
lose your concentration and forget even to slow down, you
will certainly find yourself airborne once you hit the rumble
strip.
Straightaway: There are a few fades in the straightaway as
the course continues its uphill climb. The end of the
straightaway (approaching Remus Curve) has a suddenly steeper
grade and demands total concentration.
Turn 2 (Remus Curve): This is a TIGHT right-hand 'J' turn
requiring heavy or even severe braking, and complete
concentration to navigate safely (even when not dealing with
traffic). The uphill climb of the circuit continues through
most of the turn, making high or even moderate speeds
impossible here. Rolling the right-side tires up on the thin
patch of grass on the inside of the Remus Curve will almost
definitely result in loss of control of your vehicle. Even
worse, this is a blind corner due to the barrier. Aggressive
drivers will certainly end up overrunning the Remus Curve on
exit and find themselves beached in the kitty litter.
Straightaway: Located at the highest elevation of the course,
this straightaway has a fade to the right, then another to
the left. After the second fade, prepare for braking before
arriving at the Gosser Curve.
Turn 3 (Gosser Curve): Another tight right-hand corner,
moderate braking will be required here to avoid sliding off
the course and into yet another sand trap. This is also a
blind corner, due to the barrier on the inside of Gosser.
The circuit begins to slowly descend in elevation here.
Straightaway: This is actually NOT a straightaway at all; the
course map does not list the right-hand turn, but it is
definitely more than just a fade. If you overrun this, you
will end up in the same sand trap as before - it is simply
extended along the left side of the course from the outside
of Gosser until well beyond this unofficial corner.
Turn 4 (Niki Lauda Curve): This is a wide left-hand corner
which will require light or moderate braking; even if you
slow greatly before entering the corner, you will likely be
tapping the brakes as you progress through Niki Lauda. There
is another wide patch of sand on the outside of the corner,
stretching almost all the way to the entrance of the Gerhard
Berger Curve. A short straightaway separates Turns 4 and 5.
Turn 5 (Gerhard Berger Curve): This is almost identical to
the Niki Lauda Curve, but with an additional sand trap which
begins on the inside of the corner.
Straightaway: Again more than a fade but not listed as an
official corner, there is a 'turn' to the right shortly after
exiting the Gerhard Berger Curve. About two-thirds of the
way along, the course enters a scenic forested area.
Turn 6 (Jochen Rindt Curve): This is a semi-hidden right-hand
corner which can be taken with light braking. Another sand
trap awaits those who run off the outside of the corner. A
short straightaway follows Jochen Rindt.
Turn 7 (Mobilkom Curve): This is a right-hand corner which
will require light or moderate braking. The Pit Lane begins
on the right just before the entry to Mobilkom, so be careful
not to bump cars slowing before going to the pits.
Pit Entry: Located just before the entrance to the Mobilkom
Curve, the Pit Lane is to the right. This is a long pit
lane, so plan to stay out of here as much as possible!!!
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF GERMANY: HOCKENHEIM
Surrounded by multitudes of trees which make much of the
circuit rather dark in wet races, this is the fastest course
used for F1 racing in 2000. If not for the Jim Clark, Brems,
and Ayrton Senna chicanes, cars would be flying around the
course in top gear all the way from the North Curve (Turn 1)
to the entry of the Stadium (Turn 10). The three chicanes
all have paved shortcuts, but taking these will amass a Stop-
Go Penalty each time. Except the right side of the Pit
Straight, there is more than enough room to pull well off the
pavement should a car have a serious problem on any part of
the circuit.
Special Note: To truly discover the speeds and the lap times
once possible before the chicanes were added to Hockenheim,
turn off the Flags option (if necessary) and purposely drive
on the old course pavement through each of the chicanes. Fun
and fast!!!!!
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +3
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -3
Rear Downforce: -3
Ride Height: -3*
Rear Diffuser: -1
*The Hockenheim circuit is almost perfectly flat, so the only
reason to raise the Rear Height is for better cornering due
to slower top-end speed.
Pit Straight: The entire left side of the Pit Straight has a
rumble strip, the only course with this design. This is an
extremely short straightaway compared to the rest of the
course.
Turn 1 (North Curve): This right-hand corner can be taken
with no or little braking. The Pit Lane rejoins the course
from the right at the exit of North Curve. Opening lap
aside, if you are not at full acceleration exiting this
corner, you will definitely be passed in the long sweeping
straightaway leading to the Jim Clark chicane.
Straightaway: Immensely lengthy and lined with trees, speed
is of the utmost importance here. The entire straightaway is
an extremely gentle fade to the right. Drift to the left
when you reach the grandstands.
Turns 2 and 3 (Jim Clark Chicane): DO NOT keep driving
straight ahead here; the mandatory chicane is a right-left
pair of corners. Moderate braking should be required for
Turn 2 (or light braking if not in traffic and using a
FLAWLESS racing line which makes judicious use of the rumble
strips), but full acceleration can be taken leading out of
the chicane.
Straightaway: Yet another long, sweeping straightaway which
fades calmly to the right. Again, drift to the left before
entering the Brems Chicane, and begin braking much earlier
than for the Jim Clark Chicane.
Turns 4 and 5 (Brems Chicane): The original course
configuration (used in older F1 racing games) did not have a
chicane here, and the original pavement remains. However,
the official course currently in use advances slightly from
the old course, suddenly cuts tightly to the right and
crosses the old pavement, then cuts tightly to the left to
rejoin the old pavement. Moderate braking will be needed for
Turn 4, and light braking for Turn 5. Even with the Flags
option disabled, the angle of the old pavement to the
official chicane is such that it is impossible to blast
through this segment at top speed without spinning the car
through the kitty litter.
Turn 6 (East Curve): This is a very wide right-hand corner
which can be taken at top speed. Strong acceleration out of
Brems is important to assist in passing here.
Straightaway: This is yet another long straightaway, but
without any fades. Drift to the right for the Ayrton Senna
Chicane.
Turns 7-9 (Ayrton Senna Chicane): DO NOT follow the old
course pavement directly ahead unless you really WANT to
serve a Stop-Go Penalty. The official course turns to the
left, cuts tightly to the right, and eases left again. It is
actually possible to speed into Turn 7 at top speed (making
use of the thin patch of pavement to the left of the left-
side rumble strip), then slam HARD on the brakes through Turn
8, and accelerate quickly out of the chicaneŠ but this is
certainly NOT recommended.
Straightaway: The final long straightaway of the course has
extra pavement on the left, 'blocked' only by a line of
orange cones which unfortunately do not move should you hit
them. Surprisingly, the CPU does not assign a Stop-Go
Penalty for driving to the left of these cones, so this could
potentially be a place to pass large numbers of cars. This
extra pavement begins shortly after the exit of the Ayrton
Senna Chicane, and ends at the entry of the Stadium; thus, if
you are on this 'extra' pavement entering the Stadium, you
will have a better racing line for Turn 10, allowing you to
navigate the corner with less or no braking.
Turn 10 (Entrance to the Stadium: Agip Curve): Light braking
may be required here, but you should be able to pass through
the Agip Curve without any braking at all (especially if your
racing line began with the 'extra' pavement on the left
before the Stadium). A short straightaway follows.
Turn 11 (Continuing through the Stadium: Sachscurve): This is
a left-hand wide hairpin turn. Be careful not to end up in
the grass, either entering or exiting the corner.
Straightaway (Continuing through the Stadium): This short
straightaway has a fade to the left, followed by a fade to
the right.
Turns 12 and 13 (Exiting the Stadium: Opel): The first right-
hand corner is somewhat tight, and moderate braking will be
required here; the old course rejoins the current course from
the left on exit, so if you run wide in this corner, you can
likely recover here using the old pavement. The final corner
of the circuit is a right-hand turn which will require light
braking. The Pit Lane entry is to the right just before the
official Turn 13. Unless you are headed for the pits, you
should be able to accelerate out of the Stadium here and stay
on the accelerator all the way to the Jim Clark chicaneŠ
which is quite a long time!!!!!
Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins to the right at the entry of
Turn 13 (the final corner of the Stadium).
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF HUNGARY: HUNGARORING
The Hungaroring circuit has wide run-off areas, which can be
quite important, especially for Turn 1. It is imperative to
qualify near the top of the grid and be (one of) the first
through this corner, as traffic backs up tremendously here at
the start of a race - moreso than at most other circuits due
to the nasty configuration of the first turn.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -2
Rear Downforce: -2
Ride Height: -2
Rear Diffuser: +1
Pit Straight: This is the highest point on the course and a
very long straightaway. Actually, the highest point is at
the very end of the Pit Straight, at the entrance of Turn 1.
Turn 1: It's all downhill from hereŠ almost literally. This
tight right-hand hairpin corner is downhill all the way
through, making early braking a necessity; plus, you will
certainly be tapping the brakes all the way through this
important first turn. If you do overrun the corner, there is
a huge sand trap for your inconvenience. However, if you
roll up on the inside rumble strips, expect your car to spin
violently and collide with anything nearby.
Turns 2 and 3: After a short straightaway, Turn 2 is a left-
hand 'J' turn requiring light braking; do not keep going
straight ahead and miss the official corner, as that patch of
pavement ends in an immovable barrier. Turn 2 is quickly
followed by Turn 3, a right-hand corner which must be taken
at full throttle to set up passing opportunities through Turn
3 and along the ensuing straightaway.
Turn 4: This moderate left-hand corner may require light
braking or may be taken flat-out. Plenty of kitty litter
awaits those who overrun the corner.
Turn 5: Moderate braking is necessary for this right-hand 'J'
turn. Plenty of sand is available on both sides of the
pavement here, just in case.
Turns 6 and 7: The CPU is very touchy about this right-left
chicane; virtually ANY short-cutting here results in a Stop-
Go Penalty. There is plenty of sand here as well, just in
case. Turn 6 is tight, requiring heavy braking. Turn 7
requires moderate braking, and beware the barrier on exit if
you happen to swing out too wide.
Turn 8: This moderate left-hand corner may require light
braking, but may also be taken as a full speed passing zone
if using rapid reflexes and a perfect racing line.
Turn 9: Almost immediately following Turn 8, this right-hand
corner definitely requires moderate braking to keep to the
pavement. Accelerate strongly out of Turn 9 to set up good
passing opportunities.
Turn 10: An easy left-hand corner which can be taken at top
speed. This is a prime place to pass if sufficient
acceleration was made out of Turn 9.
Turn 11: Shortly following Turn 10, the right-hand Turn 11
requires moderate braking to stay out of the kitty litter on
the outside of the corner, but can be taken at top speed with
no traffic and a flawless racing line.
Turns 12 and 13: This is a right-left chicane for which the
CPU is again very touchy concerning shortcutting. While
slowing for the corner here is officially preferable, it is
possible to speed through at full throttle by making use of
the rumble strips; of course, this is virtually impossible to
do safely if racing in wet conditions.
Straightaway: The straightaway following Turn 13 has a small
rise about halfway to Turn 14. This rise can be a good point
at which to measure your braking zone, which is very
important for the upcoming corner. Cars running a very high
downforce set-up can especially benefit from braking at the
crest of this small rise.
Turn 14: This is a wide 'J' turn to the left. At first,
there is plenty of sand to the outside for those who overrun
the corner, but then a metal barrier rubs up against the
pavement beginning about halfway around the corner, so DO NOT
overrun the corner if you like having the right side of the
car intact. The course begins its steep uphill trajectory
here. A very short straightaway follows.
Turn 15: At the entry of this final corner is the Pit Lane
entry, so beware of slower cars on the right. The official
corner itself is an uphill, right-hand hairpin with little
room for those who overrun the corner. Accelerate strongly
(but not too early) out of this final corner to pass along
the Pit Straight and put on a show for the spectators.
Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins at the entry of Turn 15 on the
right; begin slowing (rather, do not accelerate much) at the
end of Turn 14 (the left-hand 'J' turn).
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF BELGIUM: SPA-FRANCORCHAMPS
This is a well-storied course used for many forms of racing.
One of the longer courses used in the 2000 F1 season, the
forest setting is rather scenic. This is also home to the
famous Turn 1 - the La Source hairpin - which is the slowest
corner in all of F1 racing. As at Hungaroring, it is very
important to be at the front of the grid on the first lap to
safely navigate the first turn. Due to the forest setting,
much of the circuit is perpetually shadowed, which is
especially significant if racing in wet/overcast conditions.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -2
Rear Downforce: -2
Ride Height: -2
Rear Diffuser: +1
Pit Straight: Strong acceleration out of the Bus Stop chicane
allows SOME room for passing here, but only experts (or those
with a death wish) would ever consider waiting until after
crossing the Start/Finish Line to brake for La Source,
because the Line is so far down the Pit Straight. The course
also slopes downward here, all the way through La Source.
Turn 1 (La Source): This is an incredibly tight right-hand
hairpin. Fortunately, there is plenty of swing-out room and
plenty of recovery space, both paved, which can provide a
great passing opportunity by taking an extremely wide racing
line. The downward slope of the course is not much here, but
it does add to the difficulty of this hairpin turn. Brake
lock-up and the resultant flat-spotting of the tires is quite
easy to inadvertently accomplish here, especially in wet
racing conditions, so caution is extremely important. If a
car in front of you takes the wrong racing line, passing here
can be easy. Passing can also occur here if you brake REALLY
late (after crossing the Start/Finish Line), as CPU cars
almost always begin braking well before the Line.
Straightaway (Eau Rouge): Immediately at the exit of La
Source is where the Pit Lane rejoins the main course, so try
to keep away from the inside of the course here, especially
since the barrier prevents cars exiting La Source to see cars
exiting Pit Lane. To the right is the Pit Lane for the 24-
hour races held at Spa-Francorchamps; take care not to smash
into this concrete Pit Lane barrier. Immediately after
passing the 'other' Pit Lane and entering Eau Rouge (Red
Water), the straightaway has several fades during a semi-
blind steep uphill climb into Turn 2. It is all too easy to
misjudge the racing line and wind up out in the sand and the
grass on either side of the pavement here, so memorization of
this segment of the circuit is important to keep to the
pavement.
Turn 2 (Eau Rouge): This is an easy right-hand corner at the
top of the steep uphill climb. The kitty litter on either
side of the course fades away shortly after the corner.
Straightaway (Kemmel): The course truly enters the forested
area here, with trees lining both sides of the course and
casting lengthy shadows which make this area of the circuit
rather dark in wet conditions. Cars can easily achieve
speeds over 200MPH by the end of this straightaway. The end
of Kemmel is where Mika Hakkinen made 'The Pass' on Michael
Schumacher in the 2000 Grand Prix of Belgium.
Turns 3-5 (Malmedy): This is a right-left-right combination
of corners. Moderate or even heavy braking is necessary
entering Malmedy (Turn 3), but little or no braking is needed
for Turn 4. After an almost non-existent straightaway, light
braking is needed for Turn 5 to keep from running into the
grandstand. The Malmedy complex has plenty of run-off room,
comprised of both sand and grass, with minor short-cutting
permitted by the CPU.
Straightaway: Between Malmedy and Bruxelles (the French
spelling of 'Brussels,' the capital of Belgium), the course
takes a steep downward trajectory. This can be a good
passing zone for those who did not need to use the brakes
(much) leaving the Malmedy complex.
Turn 6 (Bruxelles): The course continues downhill all the way
through this right-hand hairpin, making heavy braking a
necessity before the corner as well as light braking most of
the way through Bruxelles, especially if the tires are rather
worn. If any corner is to be overrun on a regular basis
during the course of the race, this is it, so the wide sandy
recovery area may actually be a blessing in disguise.
However, due to the slope of the hill, running up on the
rumble strips on the inside of the turn may well result in a
spin or other loss of control; if done 'right,' this may also
result in launching the vehicle airborne.
Turn 7: Shortly following Bruxelles, this left-hand corner
requires light braking.
Turn 8 and 9 (Pouhon): These two easy left-hand corners
essentially form a wide 'U' shape. Unless traffic blocks the
main racing line, top speed can be carried from Bruxelles all
the way through Pouhon to Fagnes. There is plenty of run-off
room here, if needed, on both sides of the pavement.
Turns 10 and 11 (Fagnes): This right-left complex will
require light braking on entry, and possibly tapping the
brakes through Turn 11 as well. Accelerate well out of
Fagnes to pass one or two cars on the short straightaway
which follows.
Turn 12 (Stavelot): This is another right-hand corner,
requiring light or moderate braking. It is highly important
to accelerate STRONG out of Stavelot, as you won't be using
the brakes again until the Bus Stop Chicane.
Turn 13 (Blanchimont): This is a long, sweeping, left-hand
corner which must be carried at top speed (from Stavelot) or
else you WILL be passed by others. The trees here are
pretty, but keep your eyes on the road, especially due to the
shadows cast over the circuit.
Turns 14-17 (Bus Stop Chicane): This is a tight left-right
followed by a short straightaway and a tight right-left. The
beginning of the chicane is at the top of a small rise, so
the first two turns are blocked from view on approach
(especially from Driver View) unless other cars are there to
mark the course for you. Moderate braking should be used for
both parts of the Bus Stop, but experts can semi-easily fly
through the Bus Stop at top speed (but be prepared to save
the car should the rumble strips cause you to lose control).
The CPU has little tolerance for shortcutting here.
Pit Entry: While the Bus Stop Chicane begins here with a
tight left-hand corner, the Pit Lane continues straight
ahead, with a quick right-left mini-chicane of its own.
There is not much room in Pit Lane to slow down before
reaching the Paddock, so slow on the main course, but keep to
the right to allow cars remaining in the race to pass you on
the left as they enter the Bus Stop Chicane.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF ITALY: MONZA
This historic high-speed track hosts a highly partial pro-
Ferrari crowd - affectionately known as the 'tifosi.'
Unfortunately, as with F1 2000, F1 Championship Season 2000
uses the 'old' course configuration; for the 2000 incarnation
of the Italian Grand Prix, the initial tight left-right-left-
right chicanes used in previous races were removed and
replaced instead with a gentler right-left-right chicane
similar to Hokkenheim's Jim Clark Chicane, but slightly
tighter in overall configuration. The 2000 Italian Grand
Prix is the race in which a volunteer corner worker was
killed at the Roggia chicane, due to all the flying debris
from the first-lap multi-car collision caused by Heinz-Herald
Frentzen missing his braking zone. This is also the final
race of the 'European' season; the final three races are all
overseas, 'flyaway' races.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -3
Rear Downforce: -3
Ride Height: -3*
Rear Diffuser: -1
*The Monza circuit is absolutely flat, so the only reason to
raise the Ride Height is to sacrifice top-end speed for
better cornering.
Pit Straight: Strong acceleration out of the Curva Parabolica
can create prime passing opportunities along the Pit
Straight. The Pit Lane begins on the right shortly after
exiting the Parabolica. All along the Pit Straight, take
care not to rub the right-side tires against the barriers,
which are practically flush up against the pavement.
Turns 1-4 (Rettifilio): These are the aforementioned 'old'
chicanes. This is a pair of consecutive tight left-right
corners. The CPU does allow for some shortcutting here, but
not much. The inside of each of these four corners has a
straight line diagonal to the pavement where the different
types of grass join together; cross this line by a single
pixel, and you will shortly be serving a Stop-Go Penalty.
Turn 5 (Biassono): This sweeping right-hand corner among the
thick trees can be taken flat-out. To the left is a long,
wide area of sand, but the corner is so extremely gentle that
the sand should not be needed for any reason unless you blow
an engine or severely puncture a tire.
Turns 6 and 7 (Roggia): This chicane is extremely difficult
to see on approach unless traffic is present to mark the
pavement for you, so it is very easy to overrun the chicane
(and be given a Stop-Go Penalty). This is a very tight left-
right chicane which even experts will rarely be able to
handle at full speed; moderate or heavy braking is required
by drivers of all levels of experience. The CPU has NO
tolerance for shortcutting Roggia, so don't even try it!!!!!
There is a large sand trap for those who miss the chicane
altogether. Attempting to speed through the chicane at top
speed will almost certainly result in a Stop-Go Penalty
and/or severe loss of car control.
Turn 8 (First Lesmo): This right-hand corner requires
moderate braking. There is a wide sand trap on the outside
of the corner, just in case.
Turn 9 (Second Lesmo): This right-hand corner is a little
tighter than First Lesmo, and also has a significant area of
kitty litter on the outside of the corner. Moderate braking
will be needed here.
Straightaway/Turn 10 (Serraglio): This is really just a fade
to the left, but the official course map lists this as a
curve. Counting this as a fade, this marks about the halfway
point on the longest straightaway of the Monza circuit.
There is sufficient room to pull off the course here on
either side if necessary, except when passing underneath the
bridge.
Turns 11-13 (Ascari): The Ascari chicane is more difficult
than it seems. Turn 11 is a left-hand corner requiring at
least light braking. This is followed immediately by a
right-hand corner requiring moderate braking. Turn 13 can be
taken at full acceleration if you slowed enough in Turn 12.
Wide areas of grass and sand are available for those
overruninng any part of the chicane, but those drivers will
also be given a Stop-Go Penalty. Unfortunately, F1
Championship Season 2000 does not provide the real course's
paved swing-out area at the exit of Ascari.
Straightaway (Rettilineo Parabolica): This is a significant
straightaway and a prime passing zone, especially with
powerful acceleration out of Ascari.
Turn 14 (Curva Parabolica): This final corner is a very-wide
increasing-radius right-hand hairpin. Light or moderate
braking is required on entry, but once about one-third of the
way around the hairpin, stand on the accelerator all the way
through to Rettifilio. The outside of the Curva Parabolica
has an immense expanse of kitty litter, but this should not
be necessary.
Pit Entry: Shortly after exiting the Curva Parabolica, the
Pit Lane begins on the right. This is perhaps the shortest
Pit Lane in all of F1; there is virtually NO room for
deceleration once leaving the main course, so cars going in
for servicing will begin slowing at the exit of the Curva
Parabolica.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF THE UNITED STATES: INDIANAPOLIS
The inaugural U.S. Grand Prix was significant for three
reasons. First, for the first time ever, cars were racing
'backward' (clockwise) at Indianapolis. Second, cars were
racing in the rain, which is virtually unheard-of in American
auto racing. Third, FIA allowed Fox Sports Net, the American
cable network which provided the world feed coverage of the
race, to introduce the side-view of a driver (Michael
Shumacher) at work. Fortunately, except the Pit Straight,
the course features wide run-off areas, especially along
Hulman Blvd. According to many of the drivers, part of the
'mystique' of the U.S. Grand Prix at Indianapolis was the
closeness of the spectators; at no other F1 circuit are the
fans literally 'just across the wall' from the cars (the main
grandstands at Albert Park would come closest). The U.S.
Grand Prix begins the final 'flyaway' (non-European) races of
the 2000 season.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: -3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -3
Rear Downforce: -3
Ride Height: -3
Rear Diffuser: +1
Note that this is a low-downforce set-up designed
specifically to take advantage of the Indy oval section of
the course. This set-up makes the infield segment rather
tricky, especially 'Mickey' and 'Mouse.' Extreme caution
must be taken in the infield portion of the circuit,
especially if playing with Tire Wear activated and/or in wet
conditions.
Pit Straight: This is the same as the Pit Straight used for
the Indy and NASCAR races here, but the F1 cars drive in the
'wrong' direction (clockwise). Expect top speeds close to or
even exceeding 200MPH.
Turns 1 and 2: After about 28 seconds at full throttle, this
tight right-left combination can be deadly if you miss the
braking zone. Brake early and hard to safely navigate Turn 1
in first or second gear, then accelerate through Turn 2.
Turn 3: This is a sweeping right-hand corner which can be
taken at top speed.
Turn 4: This is a long right-hand 'J' turn requiring moderate
braking to keep to the pavement.
Turn 5: Another right-hand corner, this corner requires light
or moderate braking, and can be a good passing zone with good
braking on entry.
Turn 6: This left-hand hairpin requires good braking
throughout. Accelerating too soon will certainly put you out
on the grass.
Turn 7: This is a right-hand 'J' turn onto Hulman Blvd.
Moderate braking is need here, but there is fortunately a
wide paved swing-out area on exit.
Straightaway (Hulman Blvd.): This is the longest straightaway
of the infield section of the Indianapolis F1 circuit, so
strong acceleration exiting Turn 7 is key here.
Turn 8: Turning a little to the left, this corner requires
light or moderate braking, depending on your car's top speed
on Hulman Blvd. However, the following straightaway is
extremely short, so do not expect to accelerate much (if at
all) before 'Mickey' and 'Mouse.'
Turn 9 ('Mickey'): This is a tight right-hand 'J' turn,
nicknamed 'Mickey' by the sportscasters at the inaugural F1
race at Indianapolis. This is a second-gear corner at best,
but first gear is probably a better choice here.
Turn 10 ('Mouse'): This tight left-hand hairpin corner was
nicknamed 'Mouse' by sportscasters. Any dry-conditions speed
above 45MPH will certainly force you off the course and into
the grass. A strong, short burst of acceleration out of
'Mouse' can set up a good passing opportunity in Turn 11.
Turn 11: This long right-hand corner is the final corner of
the course requiring braking. It is still fairly easy to
slip off the course (especially in wet racing conditions), so
be careful here. From here all the way to the end of the Pit
Straight, you should be fully on the accelerator for
approximately 28 seconds before braking for the first corner.
Turn 12: This right-hand corner brings the cars back out onto
the oval used for Indy and NASCAR races, and coming back out
onto the banking may be a little challenging at first. No
braking is required here.
Turn 13: This is the banked 'Turn 1' of the Indy and NASCAR
races here, but taken in reverse (clockwise) by the F1 cars.
It is important to hug the apex of the corner tightly, but to
keep off the infield grass.
Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins just before Turn 13, but in F1
Championship Season 2000, the Pit Lane barrier doesn't begin
until the exit of Turn 13. This means that 1.) you can enter
the Pit Lane 'late' if you suddenly have a problem, or 2.)
you can use the beginning of the Pit Lane to pass slower cars
on the main course, then cut back out to the Pit Straight
just before the barrier; in either case, you are likely to
cross the grass, although there is a short paved area
immediately before the Pit Lane barrier.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF JAPAN: SUZUKA
This world-famous circuit in figure-eight style is used for
many forms of auto and motorcycle racing; as such, those who
have played other racing games (such as Moto GP World Tour)
may already have some familiarity with the Suzuka circuit.
One of the most famous sights of the 'circuit' is the large
Ferris Wheel on the left behind the grandstands as cars pass
along the Pit Straight. The Grand Prix of Japan is usually
the last race of the F1 season, but was pushed ahead by one
race for the 2000 season; it will once again be the final
race of the season in 2001.
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -2
Rear Downforce: -2
Ride Height: -3
Rear Diffuser: +2
Pit Straight: Good speeds can be achieved here with strong
acceleration out of the chicane. The Pit Lane rejoins the
course from the right near the end of the Pit Straight.
Turn 1: This right-hand hairpin requires moderate braking on
approach, and you will likely be tapping the brakes through
the hairpin itself. This begins an uphill climb, and it is
difficult to see the left side of the pavement on exit, so be
careful not to run too wide and end up out in the sand.
There is really no reason to overrun the hairpin on entry, as
the corner is quite easily identifiable.
Turns 2-5 (S Curves): This is by far the hardest section of
the course - tight left-right-left-right corners. The first
of the 'S' curves can likely be taken at full speed, with
light or moderate braking for Turn 3. Turn 4 can be taken
either flat-out (not suggested) or with light braking. No
matter what, slam on the brakes for Turn 5, the tightest
corner of the 'S' section. This entire segment of the course
continues the uphill climb, making Turn 5 particularly more
difficult. There is ample recovery room on either side of
the course through the uphill 'S' section. The 'S' section
is a good place to pass slower cars, if you have enough
confidence in your brakes to pass during corner entry. No
matter what, you will NOT be surviving the 'S' curves unless
you use the brakes generouslyŠ or use only second or third
gear.
Turn 6 (Dunlop Curve): This sweeping left-hand corner is the
crest of the initial uphill segment of the course, and can be
taken at full acceleration.
Turn 7 (Degner): Here, the course turns to the right in
anticipation of the figure-eight pattern. Light braking will
likely be required, but it is possible to speed through here
without braking. To the outside of the course is a wide
expanse of grass and sand in case you overrun the corner.
Turn 8 (Degner): The final right-hand corner before passing
underneath the bridge, this turn is tighter than the previous
corner, thus moderate braking and a steady racing line will
be required here. This is also another prime passing zone.
Take care not to overrun Turn 8, or your front-left tire will
be damaged.
Straightaway: Accelerate strongly out of Degner and you
should be able to pass one or two cars as you race underneath
the bridge. The course fades to the right here before
reaching the tight Hairpin.
Turn 9 (Hairpin): This is a tight left-hand hairpin which
begins the next uphill segment of the Suzuka circuit. It is
possible to shortcut a little here, but the grass combined
with the angle of the hill here will really slow you down and
perhaps cause you to spin and/or slide, especially in wet
conditions. Be careful not to accelerate too soon, or you
will be out in the grass. There is a sizeable patch of kitty
litter for those who miss the hairpin completely.
Turn 10: Continuing the uphill run, the course here makes a
wide sweep to the right. Any braking here means losing track
positions.
Turns 11 and 12 (Spoon): This is a tricky pair of left-hand
corners, in a decreasing-radius 'U' formation. The first
corner is fairly standard, requiring little (if any) braking.
However, Turn 12 is both tighter AND slopes downhill, so
judicious usage of brakes and a pristine racing line are both
important here, especially if attempting to pass a slower
vehicle. If you misjudge any single corner at Suzuka, it
will be Turn 12; fortunately, there is plenty of recovery
room on both sides of the pavement here. However, do not
roll up on the rumble strips or the grass on the inside of
Turn 12, as that will almost certainly cause you to lose
control and likely spin.
Straightaway: Power out of Spoon and rocket down the
straightaway, passing multiple cars. After you cross the
bridge, start thinking about the chicane.
Turn 13 (130R): Shortly after crossing the bridge, the course
turns gently to the left. No braking is required here, but
look for cars on the right slowing for the Pit Lane entry
just before the chicane.
Turns 14-16 (Chicane): This is a very tricky part of the
course. The chicane begins with a moderate turn to the
right, then a tight left-hand corner, then ends with a wider
turn to the right and empties out onto the Pit Straight.
Fortunately, the inside of the chicane is filled with only
sand, not barriers, but shortcutting the chicane results in a
Stop-Go Penalty and a loss of control (due to the rumble
strips and the kitty litter). Be careful coming out of Turn
15 so that you don't go too wide and bump the right side of
the vehicle on the Pit Lane barrier.
Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins to the right just before
Chicane. Note that the Pit Entry is the SECOND patch of
pavement to the right coming off the main course.
==============================================
GRAND PRIX OF MALAYSIA: SEPANG
This is the second-newest F1 course currently in use, as its
construction was completed just in time for the end of the
1999 F1 season. Sepang includes very wide recovery zones all
along the course, on both sides of the pavement, with very
few exceptions. The main grandstands are nestled 'within'
the course itself, as the 'back straight' and the 'Pit
Straight' flank each side of the main spectator seats, linked
by a tight left-hand hairpin. While the pavement is rather
wide for an F1 circuit, it is actually more difficult to
drive than it appears on television, especially the 'back'
part of the course (behind the main grandstands).
Suggested Car Set-up:
Gear Ratios: -3
Steering Lock: +3
Front Suspension: -2
Rear Suspension: -2
Brake Balance: -2
Engine RPM: +2
Side Pod Radiators: +3
Front Downforce: -2
Rear Downforce: -2
Ride Height: -2
Rear Diffuser: +2
Pit Straight: The main grandstands are to the left as you fly
down the Pit Straight. There is a short bit of sand or grass
to the right between the main course and the Pit Lane
barrier, about enough room for a car to pull off should a
problem arise. Slam on the brakes at the end of the Pit
Straight, as the first two corners are VERY tight.
Turns 1 and 2: Turn 1 is a TIGHT right-hand corner, followed
immediately by the not-as-tight-but-still-difficult left-hand
Turn 2. If there is traffic ahead of you, the cars will
certainly bunch up here. The first corner on the opening lap
of any F1 race is characterized by cars bunching up together;
given the downhill slope of Turns 1 (beginning at the exit)
and 2, cars are even more likely than usual to bump each
other and/or the barrier here. Fortunately, the outside of
Turn 2 has a wide (sand-filled) recovery area, so if a major
accident takes place, it might be wise to (carefully) take to
the sand to avoid the worst of the chaos and debris.
Turn 3: Accelerate hard through this sweeping right-hand
corner. No braking is necessary here. The course begins a
gentle uphill climb here.
Turn 4: It is easy to overrun this corner, either on entry or
on exit, but the wide patch of sand is available to slow you
down in these situations. This right-hand corner is the
crest of the uphill climb which began in Turn 3. Moderate
braking will be required here.
Turns 5 and 6: Turn 5 is an easy left-hand corner, followed
by the similarly-shaped right-hand Turn 6. In Turn 5, the
barrier comes very close to the pavement on the inside of the
corner, so be careful not to roll up on the grass here.
There is plenty of space for recovery on the outside of each
corner, which may be important exiting Turn 6 as it is rather
easy to run too wide on exit. Both corners can be taken
either flat-out or with simply a light tapping of the brakes.
Turns 7 and 8: These two right-hand corners are best taken
in a wide 'U' formation. It is possible to fly through these
corners at top speed, but some may feel more comfortable by
tapping the brakes very briefly at about the apex of each
corner (especially in Turn 8). There is plenty of kitty
litter on the outside of the corners here should you lose
concentration and drive off the pavement.
Turn 9: This tight left-hand corner is made even more
difficult by the brief uphill slope leading to the corner
itself, which hides the view of the pavement as the course
turns to the left here. Early braking is key, or else you
WILL be caught out in the sand trap. Moderate or heavy
braking will be needed here, depending on your top speed
coming out of the 'U' formation of Turns 7 and 8. If you
have excellent confidence in your braking ability (especially
with fresh tires after a pit stop), this is a great place to
pass other cars on braking, but only if attempted near the
inside of the corner - otherwise, you will be far off the
racing line, and any car(s) you try to pass will force you
out into the sand.
Turn 10: After the tightness of Turn 9, Turn 10's right-hand
corner can be taken at full throttle. The course climbs
gently uphill here, cresting shortly after the exit.
Turn 11: The course begins a gentle downhill slope near the
entry of Turn 11, then turns to the right as the downhill
slope continues. Light or moderate braking will be needed
here. This is also a good place to pass other cars on
braking. It is also easy to overrun the corner, so there is
plenty of sand to the outside of the corner to slow you down
in this instance.
Turn 12: After a short straightaway, the course turns to the
left. If you hug the apex tightly, you should be able to
take Turn 12 without braking. Again, plenty of sand awaits
those who slide off the pavement here.
Turn 13: This is a right-hand decreasing-radius hairpin with
no paved swing-out area on exit, making the corner more
difficult than it at first appears. The first 60 degrees can
be taken at top speed, although some braking is greatly
recommended here. After that, moderate or heavy braking is
required to keep from rolling out into the kitty litter.
Strong acceleration is key on exit.
Straightaway: This straightaway runs along the 'back side' of
the main grandstands. This is a very long straightaway, so
powerful acceleration out of the Turn 13 hairpin can provide
good passing opportunities here, especially for those using a
low-downforce set-up. Near the end of the straightaway, a
line of pavement leaves to the right, but this is NOT the Pit
Lane entry used for F1 races.
Turn 14: This is the final corner of the course, and perhaps
the most important in a close race. Following the long
straightaway on the 'back side' of the main grandstands, this
is a left-hand hairpin, much tighter than Turn 13. It is key
here to approach from the extreme right side of the pavement,
tightly hug the apex, and accelerate strongly while drifting
back out to the right on exit. The Pit Lane entry begins
here about halfway through the hairpin, so beware of slower
cars going in for servicing. This is also a good place to
pass on braking, especially for those with a high-downforce,
fast-acceleration set-up.
Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins halfway through the Turn 14
hairpin (the final corner of the course). Keep to the right
entering the hairpin, to allow those passing you to dive to
the left-hand apex of the corner; after the first 90 degrees
of the corner, drive straight ahead along the Pit Lane.
However, you will quickly find the Pit Lane curving to the
left, so make sure you have slowed enough to not bang the
front wing or front-right tire against the barrier.
WISH LIST
There are several additions and modifications I hope EA
Sports makes in future versions of their F1 racing games.
This is a highly subjective list, but I believe most readers
of this driving guide will recognize that these changes will
both add to the realism of the F1 games and also make the
games more marketable with the proposed extra/bonus features.
1.) When a player skips both Practice and Qualifying and
begins instantly with a Race, it would be nice to have the
opportunity to modify car settings.
2.) More (single-player) scenarios would be niceŠ perhaps
about thirty scenarios total.
3.) Perhaps one or more bonus courses - courses designed
entirely by EA Sports and which are (hopefully) more
technical than anything used in current F1 racing, or real-
world courses which have never hosted an F1 event - for
achieving some fantastic feat, such as accumulating 125 or
more total points in the Drivers Championship.
4.) TRULY bring back the Front Downforce and Rear Downforce
options - how can a car truly obey the laws of physics when
one or both wings are missing and it is STILL DRIVING
FLAWLESSLY!?!?!?!?!?!
5.) Two-player competition scenarios - for example, Mika
Hakkinen versus Michael Schumacher for the Drivers'
Championship at the final course of the season, with only one
point separating them at the beginning of the race.
6.) Demolition Mode - this may also be an unlockable feature,
one in which the object is to both survive an entire race
(perhaps only eight laps) AND try to take out as many other
cars as possible. For an eight-lap race, any single car may
be permitted to go to Pit Lane only twice.
7.) Course Builder - Allow players to design their own
fantasy F1 courses. This may be best done via a separate
game disc (sold separately to increase your profits!!!), but
the main game would be able to import the data for the
courses players have created. Several standard templates
should be available to give players a starting point.
Several location options should also be available: seaside,
mountains, plains, airport circuit, city circuit, etc.
8.) History Mode - Perhaps also unlockable, allow players to
race in versions of F1 cars from the 1950s to the present, on
courses which have previously hosted F1 races (Adelaide,
Detroit, etc.).
9.) Future Mode - Perhaps also unlockable, allow players to
race in potential futuristic versions of F1 cars.
10.) Add hazards - oil on the course, spectators running
amok, large pieces of debris following a major collision,
etc.
11.) Corner Workers - Instead of displaying flags at the top
of the screen, force the player to look for the corner
workers when entering each turn to see if a flag is being
displayed. The first time a particular flag is displayed by
a corner worker, the team principal can still announce over
the radio that a particular flag is being shown, and what it
means; for all subsequent displays of that flag, no radio
announcement should be given.
12.) More frequent radio updates on teammate's race status,
including approximately when he will be going to Pit Lane
(i.e.: 'Pedro De La Rosa is scheduled to pit in two laps').
13.) Periodic radio updates on the points-paying positions.
14.) Leave the on-screen race updates (the TV-style
information at the bottom of the screen) on-screen a few
extra seconds. If this is not possible (likely due to FIA
standards), include a radio version of this same information
(to the extent possible) simultaneously.
15.) Start each race on the warm-up lap, and force players to
correctly find their grid position for the Standing Start.
(This may best be used only in Championship Mode.)
16.) When lapping traffic or being lapped by the race
leaders, it would be nice to have a second column on the top-
left of the screen showing who is immediately in front of and
immediately behind the player on the track. This second
column should be immediately to the right of the current
column which shows the player's current race position, or
underneath the lap counter. Also, it would be beneficial if
both columns showed the TWO cars immediately in front of and
behind the player.
17.) In long Championship Mode races (at least 16 laps), for
one or two races during the season, have an incident which
necessitates a Red Flag (in either qualifying or in a race),
adding more realism to the game. Similarly, one or two races
during the season should have a Full-course Yellow situation.
In both cases, the incidents causing these situations need
not occur in the player's area of vision.
18.) When another driver is forced to retire, the radio
report should indicate who retired and WHY. This could be
especially important if the teammate just retired due to a
mechanical problem, which may also happen with the player's
car.
19.) When there is an accident, a car has spun, debris is
strewn across the track, etc., the radio report should notify
the player of the particular situation and WHERE the
potential hazard is on the track (i.e.: 'Jacques Villeneuve
has spun out at Castrol-S'). Especially for courses which
have named corners and straightaways, this can truly test a
player's knowledge of each circuit.
20.) When a player wants to come to the Pits for servicing,
she or he should first be required to signal the team by
pressing a button or combination of buttons on the controller
(perhaps the Change View and Rear View buttons
simultaneously) to ensure the team is ready. Further, if the
player makes this announcement of intent between the second
timing point and the Start/Finish Line, the team will not be
ready until the following lap.
21.) On occasion during a season, replace a normally-
scheduled driver with the official test driver for that team.
22.) According to FIA regulations, a driver who cannot
qualify within 107% of the fastest qualifying time is
disqualified from the race. Future incarnations of the game
should also enforce this rule, even though it could result in
one-car races if the difficulty is set to 'Easy' (yes, I have
several times qualified so well that NONE of the other 21
cars could qualify within the 107% window).
23.) When entering Pit Lane, the player should also be
allowed to CHOOSE to repair any damage or to ignore damage
repair. This can be especially important near the end of a
race. For example, if a wing is damaged but there are only
three laps remaining in the race, repairing the damaged wing
will likely cause the player to lose the race. Similarly, if
a wing is damaged and the player has been given a Stop-Go
Penalty, the player should have the right to decide whether
the damage is severe enough to be taken care of immediately,
or whether it can be bypassed and the Penalty served.
24.) While the physics engine of F1 Championship Season 2000
is definitely better than that of its predecessor, there is
NO way that a player should be able to qualify on Pole with a
time of 1:15 at Albert Park, TEN SECONDS faster than the
real-world drivers (2001 Grand Prix of Australia)!!! The
game's fastest qualifying/lap times should be much closer to
real-world times.
WRAP-UP
The official FIA Web site (http://www.fia.com/) has a lot of
good information pertaining to F1 racing, including the
current season's race schedule, rules and regulations, and
links to the official Web sites of most of the courses used.
The FIA Web site is available in both French and English.
Most importantly, while plenty of people play this and other
racing games (F1 and otherwise), our lives are not in
jeopardy. We must NEVER forget the risk of serious injury
and death inherent in F1 and other forms of racing: for the
drivers, the pit crews, the track personnel, the members of
the media, and even the spectators. Following the death of
NASCAR driver Dale Earnhardt (2001 Daytona 500), I saw a TV
interview in which a NASCAR spokesperson said that no one
comes to races to see people die; they come to races to see
people defy death. We cannot ever forget the lives of the
celebrities and the 'nameless' Everyman - including the
spectators - which have been lost as people have defied - and
continue to defy - death on the race circuits of the world.
CONTACT INFORMATION
For questions, rants, raves, comments of appreciation, etc.,
or to be added to my e-mail list for updates to this driving
guide, please contact me at: FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM
To find the latest version of this and all my other PSX/PS2
game guides, please visit FeatherGuides
(http://www.angelcities.com/members/feathersites/). The
latest version will always be posted at FeatherGuides, while
other Web sites may lag behind by several days in posting
updates.
=======================================================================
Wolf Feather Jamie Stafford
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Just as there are many parts needed to make a human a human, there's a
remarkable number of things needed to make an individual what they are.
- Major Kusinagi, _Ghost in the Shell_
=======================================================================
